A plateful of velvety yoghurt ice cream, served with karari (crispy) spinach papdi, topped with beetroot-coriander chutney and arils of pomegranate, flew in as a starter to my meal at FIRO, Chennai’s newest fine-dining restaurant.
The restaurant derives its name from two forces that lie at the heart of Indian cooking—FI for fire and RO for roots. Similarly, the restaurant is a power alliance between restaurateur, Ashish Thadani and Chef Ajit Bangera, one of the country’s most celebrated chefs.
“An ice cream to start with?” I was quick to ask. “What is a meal without some surprises?” replied Bangera, who sat across the table. As I broke the papdi and dug it into the cold yoghurt mound, Bangera said, “This is my take on chaat.”
Star Dish
The crunch of the papdi, the freshness of the yoghurt, the tanginess of the chutneys, and Bangera’s comment warmed me up for what I had signed up for— a fleet of unpredictable, innovative and delicious preparations.
Next flew in the mushroom pâté. The khameeri bread topped with a hearty dollop of creamy mushroom pâté and truffle pearls is a preparation I could go back to time and again. The dish qualifies to steal the spot of the star dish for the pâté’s fresh aroma and rich texture.
The non-vegetarian counterpart of the dish is the chicken liver pâté topped with sweetcorn gelee (French word for jelly). While it is equally creamy and fresh, even the non-vegetarians wanted to reorder the mushroom pâté— a rare occasion that makes it easy to guess how good the latter was.
What’s More?
Curated by Chef Ajit Bangera in collaboration with Chef Abhishek Mody, Firo’s menu draws inspiration from the length and breadth of India’s culinary memory. It reimagines traditional Indian cuisine with unique and contemporary flavours.
The menu is neatly categorised into sections, and each preparation comes with a vegetarian and non-vegetarian option, making the roster relevant for both.
Their malai dumplings are a highlight. Paired with the byadagi chilli relish, the dumplings are comforting and creamy. Follow it up with the Bombay puffs, filled with masala potato filling, thecha masala, and green chilli that add just the right amount of spice to the meal. While I enjoyed the fermented rice pillows filled with a puree of spiced and stir-fried mushrooms, they were a bit sweeter than I liked.
For non-vegetarians, a standout starter is P.P., riceflakes-coated, fried prawn fingers, each served separately in a glass, in a batch of four.
“One thing I was very particular about was the portion size. I wanted the diner to try dishes from across the menu, so the servings are small but sufficient,” explained Bangera. I can attest to this because, despite a heavy start, I was still anticipating the mains. It was almost like I was a part of an audience, so impressed by the first act that the wait for the second felt too long.
For vegetarians, the star preparation from the mains section of the menu is palak no paneer. Instead of paneer, there is burrata. Its creaminess, combined with the garlic-dominant palak gravy, is delicious. Pair it with their layered multani kulcha, making it a hearty meal. The highlight for non-vegetarians is the not-so-butter chicken prepared with locally sourced butter and shahi paratha.
If I had to pick a dessert for anyone visiting FIRO, I would unthinkingly go for their semolina indulgence. The semolina cake is paired with ghee ice cream and topped with jaggery sauce. The trinity comes together to create a dessert experience where each element plays its part well.
Drinks Menu
The drinks menu at FIRO is an extension of their food menu, where local ingredients are crafted in elegant drinks. Designed by Tania, the compact yet competent drinks program features both zero-proof mocktails and craft cocktails.
From the zero-proof drinks, I recommend you try their rooted fizz featuring nannari spritz with a ginger kick. The spiced melon is a fiery watermelon cooler and makes for another good pick.
The whisky-based kokum sour and gin-based hibiscus club are two must-tries from their cocktails.
Vibe Check
FIRO offers seating for over 50 people at once. The restaurant features clean and elegant interiors that don’t overpower and allow you to focus on the food while feeling at ease.
FIRO is spread across two floors, with the bar in the middle of the restaurant. Among other things you would want to return for, their playlist will definitely be one of them. From Cliff Richard and Jim Croce to ABBA and Lana Del Rey, the playlist makes you want to sit longer.
Only open during dinner hours for now, FIRO is an excellent spot to unwind and enjoy a hearty meal with family and friends.
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