After almost two years of eating out for a living, I sometimes find myself excited about dining at places where comfort food comes paired with a space where you can drop in without worrying about the wrinkles on your shirt. Nama by Arq is designed to be just that spot. And works best for them because the restaurant is located inside the Dhan Mill Complex which houses Delhi’s swankiest designer stores and receives people who drop in for the big fat Indian shaadi (wedding) shopping. And no shopping day at Dhan Mill ends without fatigue. On such days, crash at Nama. Even otherwise, if you wish to enjoy global preparations with a comforting twist, then Nama is a good spot to add to your list.
As soon as I entered, I was met with earthy interiors and a colour palette that instantly put me at ease. The looks resembled that of a cafe more than a restaurant and that shaped my expectation from the menu too. A ‘pizza-pasta menu’ was my expectation. However, as chefs Neha Lakhani and Ashay Dhopatkar took me through the roster, I realised that this was a place that dealt seriously and creatively with its food and ingredients. After the meal, it felt as if I had tried almost half the menu (I was not even close to that) and that tells you how good a host the duo was. As you read on, you will know exactly what to pick when visiting Nama so go on read and thank me later!
What Should You Try From The Food Menu?
To start off, I called for their Strachiatella and Peppered Chips. The prep featured a creamy scoop of strachiatella cheese ice cream drizzled with olive oil and paired with your favourite potato chips. If you are someone who enjoys pairing sweet with salty, then you won’t mind driving down to Nama from any part of the city. However, if like me, you aren’t a fan, then you should pass. Next up, don’t miss the Pickled Cucumber Gomae. Pickled cucumber just how they should be arranged in a pool of peanut satay. The cucumbers on their own were spiced well, topped with chilli sauce but the star of the dish was the peanut sauce which you might go in for separately too (I did). All in all, a standout from the menu.
The Nama Mascerated Peppers with goat cheese and basil oil is one of my most favourite dishes on the menu. The week-long marinated peppers were tangy and were well complimented by goat cheese and basil oil. Next up I ordered the ‘Ivade Veru’ (translating to Come Here in Malayalam) Hummus. The hummus was prepared using aubergine, podi, and curry leaf and came paired with freshly-baked sourdough bread. I didn’t quite enjoy the hummus but the bread was top notch and when heartily dipped in the goat cheese and topped with marinated peppers, it made for a perfect bite.
From the pizzettes, I opted for the Wild Mushroom Forestiere. Morels, wild and dark mushroom paired with loads of parmesan was nothing extraordinary but the 72-hour cold fermented sourdough wins all the points. For non-vegetarians, the pizzette variety you should go for is the Pepperoni and Smoked Paprika. My co-diner quite enjoyed it. Among other preparations that you must try if you are a meat eater, are the Tuna Tostada and Mum’s Recess Shrimp Toast, which is actually Chef Dhopatkar’s take on his mother’s shrimp toast that she would prepare for his school lunch box.
The Stuffed Kashmiri Morels With Jerusalem Artichoke Purée was iconic! The morel is well stuffed and pairs perfectly with the puree. You might want to ask for (and they will happily serve) a bowlful of the puree which is pure comfort served in a bowl.
I was quite looking forward to trying the pasta at Nama. As someone who fancies a well-done, house-made pasta, I was quite looking forward to trying the ones served at Nama. However, the Angel Hair Aglio Olio was a disappointment. Unlike your idea of an aglio olio, the one at Nama comes butter yellow and slightly tangy. Quite against your idea of an aglio olio for sure. If you are up for experimenting, go for it. But I wouldn’t recommend.
Then comes the king of all menus, the desserts. As the duo behind Arq, a brand that was one of the firsts in the market to tap into gourmet mitha, you can be assured that the dessert menu on Lakhani and Dhopatkar will only impress. I picked the Philter Kaapi Panna cotta and Besan Laddoo Ice Cream. The first was a coffee-forward take on panna cotta but I missed the ingredient I always associate with panna cotta: coconut. Would have also liked it better had it been a tad bit sweeter than it was. Overall, good one if you like your desserts coffee heavy. If not, then come to the besan laddoo ice cream. Lip-smacking to say the least. A serving is most likely to fall short. It is besan laddoo served cold in the form of an ice cream. That’s it, I won’t say more and would let you try it for yourself!
The Drinks Menu
The food roster was so impressive that I thought of drinks just as a tag along with the plates. I called for one of their signature sober spritzers, Injipulli Cola which I would recommend against. It featured tamarind and tossed spices and a house made cola that didn’t make a mark for me. Their flat white on the other hand was just how I like it. Their coffee roster is quite exhaustive with a range of options for matcha, ube, and shakes too.
Nama by Arq is the kind of place that makes a case for comfort food without compromising on creativity. While some dishes hit the mark better than others, the menu has enough surprises to warrant a visit, particularly the pickled cucumber gomae, macerated peppers, stuffed Kashmiri morels and besan laddoo ice cream. Add to that its relaxed, earthy interiors and a coffee menu worth exploring, and you have a spot that works just as well for a post-shopping pit stop at Dhan Mill as it does for a leisurely meal with friends.
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