Archana Pidathala’s second cookbook, Why Cook, is a collection of close to 100 recipes from 16 women spread 12,000 km across India. The book draws inspiration from a Hungarian cookbook written by the author’s book designer-turned friend Eszter. “The book features recipes from women who run farmer collectives, are entrepreneurs, musicians, and also those who I have grown up with,” the author said in an exclusive chat with Outlook Eats.
Her brief to all the women was to provide recipes that they identify with, something that defines them. “Neither did I give them a cap on the number of recipes nor did I dictate the recipes that they were contributing,” added Pidathala. The book is a result of a three-week-long journey through ten cities across India.
One woman out of the 16 others who have contributed their recipes to the book is Aditi Kaikini Upadhya. An acclaimed Hindustani vocalist, Upadhya is also the great-granddaughter of Ambabai Samsi, author of the Saraswat cookbook, Rasachandrika. A cult classic, the book has not gone out of print ever since it was published in 1943.
“When I visited her [Upadhya’s] kitchen to cook the recipes with her, it was almost like a well-planned concert of dishes. Her music and rhythm reflected in the five recipes she had picked. A soup, a papad salad, a vegetable stir fry, a curry, and a dessert. It was a complete meal,” recalled Pidathala.
We bring to you Upadhya’s recipe for Beansa talasani from Why Cook. Talasani refers to a dish of vegetables sautéed with lots of garlic. The vegetable is the star of the show and is cooked just enough for it to retain its natural crunch and flavour. They are coated with spices bloomed in coconut oil.
While the recipe here uses french beans, one can choose to substitute them with yam, cluster beans, potatoes, ivy gourd, eggplant, or taro stems. While the dish is quick to prepare, one might have to adjust cook time according to the vegetable being used to prepare it.
