Walk into an Irani café in Mumbai, and you’ll feel time pause for a moment. One of Bombay’s most unique culinary experiences, these cafes transport you into a scene from ‘Once Upon A Time in Mumbai’, as you hear the clinking of old chai cups, the sweet smell of butter on a soft bun, and the echo of a ceiling fan cutting through conversations. Irani cafes are as authentically Bombay as it gets, with their nostalgic atmosphere, hundreds of regulars, and so, so many stories. They’re quite literally a slice of the city that refuses to change. While most of these cafés began as humble bakeries run by Zoarashtrian immigrants from Iran, serving working-class Bombay with affordable snacks and endless cups of chai, many have stood the test of time and continue to serve Iranian delicacies to the city.
On entering, these cafes feel akin to a time capsule back in time—the interiors, food, and restaurateurs are forever frozen in the Bombay that once was, which is one of my favourite things about Irani cafes, given just how quickly the city (and the world around us) is changing and transforming. While they have now been overtaken by the descendants of the people who once started these spaces, their authenticity, nostalgia, and soulfulness live on. What fascinates me most is that almost all of these Irani cafes have been open since before India even got independence. It’s absolutely riveting to think just how much history and just how many stories these spaces hold. And on visiting, you and I become part of this history.
Below, some of the Irani cafes that continue to thrive on the streets of Old Bombay to this day.
Yazdani Bakery & Restaurant
The red-brick façade, the old wall clock that runs on its own time, and the whiff of freshly baked bread that greets you before you even step in— Yazdani Bakery is a nod to the Bombay that once was. Established in the early 1950s by the Irani family that still runs it, Yazdani has now become a significant part of the city’s culinary scene.
Inside, you’ll find long wooden tables and benches, sepia-toned portraits, and bakery items peaking at you from inside their glass shelves. Regulars swear by the apple pie, ladi pav, generously slathered bun maska, or jumbo sandwich bread—each one simple, hearty, and absolutely timeless. The bread pudding and mava cake are old favourites, too, because the restaurant originally got famous for its scrumptious bakery items. There’s no WiFi here—just the pleasure of sitting with a cup of tea that costs less than your cab ride. The bonus? You can even buy yourselves a fortune cookie and find out what the world has in store for you!
Address: 11A, Cawasji Patel St, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001
Timings: Monday to Saturday (7 am–7 pm), Sunday (7-11 am)
Kyani and Co.
Now 120 years old, Kyani is Bombay’s oldest Irani cafe that’s still open for service, known for having served food and tea to freedom fighters during the independence movement. Lined with rustic chairs and wooden shelves, atop which sit huge glasses that display jars of cookies and biscuits, this cafe is the kind that comes to mind when you think of Victorian Bombay.
Here, you’ll find office-goers grabbing a quick breakfast of bun maska and Irani chai, students splitting a mutton keema pav and cherry custard, and old-timers quietly reading their morning papers over omelettes and chai in cutting glasses. But the real magic of Kyani (and places alike) lies in the mood—unpretentious, warm, and perfectly imperfect. The servers—who have been here for over 40 years—might know your order before you say it, the menu hasn’t changed in decades, and that’s exactly how everyone likes it. My personal favourites include the kaju nankhatai, chicken cheese omelette, and custard.
When wandering the streets of Marine Drive next, take a detour for this (real) gem of the city.
Address: Jer Mahal Building, 657, Jagannath Shankar Seth Rd, opp. Metro Inox Theatre, Marine Lines East, Dhobi Talao, Estate, Marine Lines, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400002
Timings: Monday to Saturday (7 am–7 pm), Sunday (7 am–4 pm)
Britannia & Company
Located inside a colonial bungalow in Ballard Estate, Fort, Britannia & Company was run by the late Mr Boman Kohinoor, a third-generation Kohinoor, ever since it opened its doors in 1923. On entering, you’re likely to spot the same bentwood furniture imported from Poland during the eatery’s early years. The Iranian joint has barely changed over the years—something that forms part of its nostalgic, warm charm.
On the menu, there are many crowd favourites. The berry pulao—a fragrant mix of rice, meat, and tart barberries—is practically a rite of passage for anyone who calls themselves a Mumbaikar. Then there’s the Salli Boti, tender mutton in a rich, spicy gravy topped with crispy potato straws, and the Dhansak, a comforting combination of lentils, meat, and brown rice that tastes like home. Wash it all down with a chilled Pallonji’s raspberry soda (most of the Mumbaikers’ childhoods are made up of this), and you’ll have had the best of everything this Irani cafe has to offer.
To top it all off? The cafe has put up a cutout of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, William and Kate, because the Kohinoors were infamous for loving the Royals.
Address: Wakefield House, opp. New Customs House, Ballard Estate, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001
Timings: Monday to Saturday (11:30 am–4 pm)
Merwan & Co.
Located right opposite Grant Road station, Merwan’s gates have been open since 1914, standing tall with its vintage glass shelves stacked with pastries of all kinds, wooden booths that have seen generations of conversations, and no-nonsense staff who might show hints of annoyance if you even think about pulling your laptop out for work. Most popular as a cake shop, Merwan has been satiating Mumbaikars’ sweet tooths for over a 100 years now.
The real star here? Their Mawa Cake—that perfectly moist, sweet, caramel-y slice of heaven that’s been the same since your grandparents’ (and great-grandparents) were in their prime. Pair it with a cup of Irani chai, strong and sweet, and you’ve got a first-class seat into the quintessential Merwan experience. Other crowd-favourites on the menu include the butter buns, jam puffs, macarons, and cream rolls—which are just flaky enough—all of which tend to disappear by mid-morning because the regulars know better than to show up late.
Here, the prices still feel like a throwback, while the people feel exactly the same. Step in, and you’ll be transported to the Bombay your grandparents once knew and loved.
Address: Next to Mallam Terrace, near B.MERWAN HOTEL, Pannalal Terrace, Grant Road East, Bharat Nagar, Grant Road, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400007
Timings: Monday to Sunday (7 am–7:30 pm)
Café Military
Also tucked away in the Fort area, Café Military, among most of these, is one of those places that seems to have pressed pause on time—and thank god for that. The cafe has pale green walls, simple wooden chairs, and an unmistakable whiff of delicious tea brewing.
The real charm of Café Military lies in its no-nonsense authenticity. There’s nothing Instagrammable about it, and that’s exactly why it’s special. The keema pav is the crowd favourite paired with the iconic raspberry soda. Their dhansak, masoor ghosh, and mutton biryani are also some of the most loved items on the menu, while the salli boti and cutlets are equally worth the mess you’ll make while devouring them. And if you have a sweet tooth, their caramel custard—soft, golden, and gently jiggling— and bun maska are an absolute must.
But beyond the food, it’s the energy here, and in spaces alike, that keeps people coming back. In a city that’s constantly hustling, bustling, and changing, what’s new, cafes like Café Military is a love letter to everything that has endured the test of time.
Address: Alli Chambers, Nagindas Master Rd, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001
Timings: Monday to Saturday (10:30 am–9:30 pm)
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