To visit Ahmedabad and not make your way to Manek Chowk is as good as not having visited the city at all. While the square has now crawled its way out of the locals’ radar to become a must-go spot for ghee-loaded dosas and seriously cheesy sandwiches, Manek Chowk’s significance is not just limited to satiating midnight hunger pangs.
A Square with a Saintly Beginning
Manek Chowk’s story begins in the 15th century, when Sultan Ahmed Shah I founded Ahmedabad in 1411 CE. According to legend, the Sultan was guided by Baba Maneknath, a saint whose blessings were said to have ensured the success of the new city.
The chowk, named after him, was built right next to Bhadra Fort and quickly became the beating heart of the old city.
Through the centuries, it evolved into a commercial hub, a place where traders, artisans, and citizens gathered. Mornings belonged to farmers and vegetable sellers. By midday, the air clinked with the sound of scales and metal as bullion traders and jewellers took over. Gold, silver, and gemstones gleamed from every corner, establishing Manek Chowk as one of the busiest jewellery markets in western India. But the real transformation, the one that would make it legendary, began much later.
How Night Fell—And the Food Arrived
In the 1970s, the neighbourhood around Manek Chowk was dotted with cinema halls. After late-night shows, moviegoers would spill out, hungry and chatty, looking for a place to eat. A few enterprising vendors spotted the opportunity and began selling pav bhaji and dosas well past midnight.
Soon, the idea caught on. More stalls appeared. Ice cream carts joined in. People began coming here just for the food. By the 1980s, local authorities had issued official licenses to organise the growing number of vendors, and a new identity for Manek Chowk was born.
What began as a handful of carts became a bustling night food market that has since fed generations of Amdavadis their midnight meals.
The magic of Manek Chowk lies in its rhythm. In the mornings, farmers arrive with carts full of vegetables and flowers. In the afternoon, the scene shifts to gold and silver. Traders gather around tables to weigh, polish, and bargain. At night, just as the shops shut, another market rises. Within minutes, stoves are lit, benches are set up, and the aroma of food fills the square. Pav bhaji, ghotala dosas, butter-laden sandwiches, kulfi, and even quirky inventions like pineapple pizza take over.
Many stalls here are family-run, some passed down through generations. Bastiram’s kulfi, for example, has been around since 1947, serving creamy, stickless kulfis in flavours that taste like nostalgia. Regulars swear by the ghotala dosa, a spicy, cheesy, scrambled-egg variation that could only have been born in a place like this.
And then there’s the crowd—a cross-section of Ahmedabad itself. Students on scooters, families sharing plates, tourists with cameras, jewellers winding down after work. Everyone finds a seat, however makeshift, and a reason to stay a little longer.
What To Eat At Manek Chowk: A Midnight Feast in Ahmedabad
When the gold traders pack up and the food carts roll in, Manek Chowk transforms into one giant open-air kitchen. From buttery pav bhaji to kulfi that’s been served for generations, here’s what you shouldn’t miss when you visit this iconic food market.
Pav Bhaji
No visit to Manek Chowk is complete without a plate of pav bhaji—soft buns toasted in mountains of butter, served with spicy mashed vegetables and a squeeze of lime. Order a “double butter” version—it’s indulgence Ahmedabad-style.
Ghotala Dosa
A Manek Chowk original, this dish is a messy, magnificent mash-up of dosa, cheese, pav bhaji masala, and scrambled eggs (or paneer for vegetarians). Ask for it extra spicy if you like a kick.
Cheese-Chilli Sandwiches
This is not your average sandwich. Thick slices of bread are stuffed with grated cheese, chillies, and vegetables, slathered with butter, and grilled until golden. Some stalls even make dessert versions, like chocolate or pineapple sandwiches.
Kulfi Falooda
End your food trail with Bastiram’s kulfi, a Manek Chowk institution since 1947. Served in flavours like malai, kesar-pista, and mango, it’s rich, creamy, and utterly refreshing after the spice overload.
Bhajiyas and Fafda-Jalebi
If you prefer something traditional, look out for the stalls frying bhajiyas (fritters) or selling fafda-jalebi, especially during festivals. Crunchy, golden, and piping hot—they’re the taste of Gujarat in one bite.
Ice Cream Sandwiches & Sundaes
Some vendors whip up creative ice cream sandwiches or sundaes with local twists, think rose syrup, rabri, or dry fruits layered over scoops of ice cream.
Unusual Finds
Part of the fun is stumbling upon quirky inventions that only make sense here — like pineapple pizza, Maggi dosa, or chocolate cheese toast. They may raise eyebrows, but they capture the playful spirit of Manek Chowk’s street chefs.
Manek Chowk | FAQs
What time does Manek Chowk open for food?
The street food market usually begins around 8:30–9:00 PM, once the jewellery shops close, and stays open until 1:30–2:00 AM. The late-night hours are part of its charm — it’s where the city gathers after dark.
What’s the best time to visit?
For the full experience, arrive between 9:30 PM and midnight. That’s when most of the stalls are up, the crowd is lively, and the food is freshly made. If you go too early, you’ll still see the jewellery market wrapping up; too late, and some stalls might start closing.
How do I get there?
Manek Chowk is located in the old walled city of Ahmedabad, near Bhadra Fort.
By car/taxi: Parking is tricky — it’s best to park a little away and walk in.
By rickshaw: The easiest option; ask to be dropped near Manek Chowk food market.
By metro: The nearest stop is Kalupur (from where you can take an auto).
Is it safe for tourists at night?
Yes—Manek Chowk is safe and bustling even past midnight. Families, students, and tourists all dine here. Just keep your belongings close, as with any crowded market.
What should I expect and wear?
Expect crowds, chatter, and chaos. Seating is often on plastic stools or makeshift tables. It’s casual, friendly, and unpretentious.
Dress comfortably, wear light clothes (it gets warm from the stoves), and flat shoes for walking.
Is the food vegetarian?
Mostly yes — 95 per cent of the food is vegetarian, in line with local preferences. You’ll find endless variations of pav bhaji, sandwiches, dosas, and desserts, but very few meat dishes.
How much does it cost?
Street food here is very affordable. A full meal—pav bhaji, dosa, dessert, and a drink—will cost around INR 250–INR 350 per person. It’s one of the best-value dining experiences in the city.
Do stalls accept digital payments?
Some do, especially the bigger ones, but it’s best to carry cash or small change. UPI payments are common, but internet signal in the crowded square can be patchy.
Can I go during the day?
Yes, but you’ll see a completely different Manek Chowk.
Morning: Vegetable and flower market
Afternoon: Jewellery and bullion trading hub
Night: The famous food market
If you have time, it’s worth seeing its transformation across the day.
What’s the local etiquette?
Don’t hold up tables—eat, chat, and make room for the next diners.
Always dispose of your waste in bins or hand it to the vendor.
Vendors are used to tourists—don’t hesitate to ask for suggestions.
Sharing plates is encouraged; that’s the Manek Chowk way.
