A Transcendent Kakori Leads The Royal Table At Kesar Bagh

One of the main things that stayed with me about Kesar Bagh wasn’t a dish—it was the name. For, it carries a certain gravitas. A quiet echo of Lucknow’s erstwhile Kaiserbagh, once the cultural court of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, where food, music, and poetry came together in a kind of exalted elegance. Here, “kesar” softens that history, bringing in the idea of saffron, of indulgence, while still holding on to the sense of something regal. It’s an unusual starting point for a restaurant in Goa, where things tend to be breezier and less formal. And yet, that contrast is exactly what makes this brand new restaurant work. 

The man behind Kesar Bagh, Chef Azaan Qureshi came by early in the meal, easy in his manner, not one for long speeches. But the lineage is there, unmistakably so. Growing up in the Qureshi family (he is the grandson of Padma Shri awardee Chef Imtiaz Qureshi), with its deep association with dum cooking, he carries that inheritance lightly. Nothing feels pretentious or eager to impress. There’s a quiet confidence in letting the food do the talking. As it should. 

I started outside, in the courtyard, where a paan counter added a gentle hum of activity. A few steps away, the bar gazebo felt like a natural next stop. The Ada came first—clean, citrusy, with lemongrass running through the gin cocktail and a hint of berries that didn’t try to steal the show. The Gulnaar was more rounded, a little more indulgent, with tequila, grapefruit and pomegranate playing off each other nicely. Both felt considered rather than clever, which is always a good sign. 

The menu, when it arrived, read like a familiar script for anyone who enjoys Awadhi food, but with enough thought to keep it from feeling predictable. I began with the Shorba Timater—simple on paper, but with a tang that lingered. 

The Kakori Kebab is what you’re meant to come here for, and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s as soft as you’d hope, almost dissolving before you’ve had a chance to think about it, with the spices sitting exactly where they should. No excess, no showiness. Just balance. The Jujhe-e-Zaan—a deboned chicken wing shaped back into form—was clever without being gimmicky, and more importantly, it tasted good. 

The seafood mains were interesting, especially in Goa where expectations run in a different direction. The Jhinga Dum Nasha held on to the natural sweetness of the prawn while letting the marinade seep in gently. The Lobster Khurchan leaned richer, while the Samundari Rattan (a unique crab kofta) felt like a respectful nod to the local catch, seen through an Awadhi prism. 

Still, it was the more traditional dishes that stayed with me. The Dal Ma Qureshi had that quintessential slow-cooked depth, and each spoonful of the tender lamb shank that is the Shahi Nehari was comforting rather than overwhelming. With the Hazari Paratha and Doodh Naan, and later the fragrant Chulao (a meat-bereft riff on the Awadhi biryani) to mop it all up, the meal found its carb-centre. 

Service was exactly what it needed to be. Attentive, but never hovering or forced. A sense of perfect timing heralded every dish. Chef Azaan kept stopping by at my table, as though my satiation was his only concern that evening. 

Dessert, as it often does, brought a shift in tone. The Lab-e-Mashooq was gentle, almost restrained—a silky, lightly set kulfi with pistachio running through it, the sweetness kept firmly in check. The Gil-e-Firdaus, on the other hand, leaned into comfort. A slow-cooked phirni enriched with fresh balai (the Awadhi name for fresh cream or malai) and pistachios, it had a softer, more rounded texture. 

By the time I stepped out, Goa had slipped back into focus—the breeze, the ease, the sense of not taking things too seriously. And yet, Kesar Bagh lingered. Not because it tried to stand apart, but because it just does. 

The Star Dish 

The Kesar Bagh Kakori is reason enough to visit. Soft to the point of near dissolution, with spices that never overstep, it delivers exactly what you expect from a classic—done right. If you have a thing for Awadhi cuisine, like I do, this is one you shouldn’t miss. 

Food Menu 

The menu stays close to its Awadhi roots, offering a focused selection rather than a sprawling one. The Jujhe-e-Zaan stands out for its technique, while the Jhinga Dum Nasha and Samundari Rattan bring in a coastal note. The Dal Ma Qureshi quietly steals the show—don’t skip it. 

Drinks Menu 

Cocktails here lean on Indian ingredients without becoming overly thematic. The Ada is bright and easy, while the Gulnaar has more depth. The bar also offers a solid range of classics and spirits. The house cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages like the mango-passion fruit cooler are worth trying.  

Vibe Check 

Set in Assagao, the restaurant occupies a restored villa that opens into multiple spaces. Outdoor seating works well in the evening, while the indoor rooms are better for quieter meals. It suits a relaxed dinner more than a quick bite. Service is smooth and well-paced. 

You feel it as soon as you step in. The restored 200-year-old Portuguese villa doesn’t try too hard because it doesn’t need to. High walls shut out the outside din, and the space opens up slowly, one room at a time. There are be-fountained courtyards, little corners, and a sense that the evening will unfold at its own pace. “One just needs to have a bit of patience” is the credo here… 

Read more: At CinCin, Order The Agnello, And Let The Cocktails Do The Talking

Also read: The Pesto Gnocchi At Jacob’s Is All You Need To Make Sundays Saucy