Why Did It Take So Long?
In a conversation with veteran food writer and expert Sourish Bhattacharyya, he told us that the entry of the Michelin Guide in any country is preceded by an agreement with the country’s national government and involves the payment of a hefty amount to the Guide. “The Thai government paid $4.1 million for the first installment to the Michelin Guide and to renew their presence in the country after five years, another installment of $4.1 million was paid. Thus, the Michelin has been in Thailand for a decade now,” he added.
When I asked him about what this means for India’s food space, he mentioned that it is a way to show the world what we got. “You and I can believe that our country has a rich culinary legacy, is home to some of the most innovative restaurants and talented chefs, but the Michelin stamp becomes a way for the world to also start believing in it,” he said. He also spoke about how much this can mean for India’s tourism industry as food connoisseurs across the world who have high spending capacity look at the Michelin Guide when planning their trips.
Chef owner of Nisaba and one of India’s most celebrated chefs Manish Mehrotra, speaks about how he thinks it is time for Michelin to start doing its homework on India. “India is a very large country with thousands of restaurants that deserve a Michelin star. So I believe Michelin will have to start doing its homework before it sets foot in our country,” he added. Talking about what it means for India, its restaurants, and chefs, he mentioned how it will be a huge motivation for those working tirelessly and also encourage more youngsters to step into the industry. “As more people step in, the industry will grow and so will everyone who is a part of it,” he added.
So now that we have an official statement about the Guide entering India, who holds a chance? Basically, anyone and everyone. Bhattacharyya mentioned how outside Europe and North America, the Guide’s functioning and decisions have been very unpredictable. “In Singapore, they have given Michelin stars to a hawker who excels in a few dishes,” he added. This means that everyone from a litti chokha seller to an Amritsari naan wala stands a chance to receive an anonymous inspector and thus, a Michelin star.
The Michelin Guide’s Selection Process
The bigger question is, how does the Guide decide who they want to hand out stars to? It is definitely not for a beautiful dining room, an elaborate tasting menu, or a famous chef’s name behind the menu, but about what arrives on the plate.
There are five universal criteria that the Guide uses to evaluate restaurants globally: the quality of ingredients; mastery of cooking and culinary techniques; harmony of flavours; the personality of the chef expressed through the cuisine; and consistency—both across the menu and over time.
The journey begins with Michelin’s inspectors and reviewers, who operate anonymously and independently dine just like any other guest, make reservations, and pay their own bills. This anonymity is central to the process disallowing any restaurant owner to stage a meal specifically for an inspector. A single spectacular dining experience is also not enough. Inspectors return several times, sampling different dishes, and visiting at different times, while established Michelin-starred restaurants are also regularly reassessed to ensure that their standards continue to be worthy of those stars.
Another demanding criterion is consistency. The restaurant has to deliver its standard repeatedly, not just on the night an inspector happens to visit. Michelin considers consistency across the menu and over time, which also makes maintaining a Star as or sometimes even more demanding as earning one.
The distinctions themselves come in three levels. One Star denotes high-quality cooking that is worth a stop. Two Stars recognise excellent cooking that is worth a detour, with the chef’s talent and personality clearly evident. Three Stars represent the Guide’s highest accolade: exceptional culinary experience that is considered worthy of a special journey.
Read more: What Is The Michelin Guide’s Grape?
Also read: Chef Himanshu Saini Releases His New Cookbook On Reimagining Indian Cuisine
