Last week, I went to the Himalayas for a few hours. No, it did not take an overnight bus or train, but a simple drive down to Qla in Mehrauli, to The Himalayan Open Kitchen. As I made my way to the terrace, I found a band from Nagaland singing some folk songs, and an ensemble of people, amidst decor that was quintessentially Himalayan, complete with pine cones and wild flowers. Chef Prateek Sadhu, who had curated this exclusive culinary event, was busy having last-minute discussions with the chefs. Soon, I was greeted by some women from various parts of Uttarakhand and Himachal, who had inspired many of the recipes I was to try that afternoon, and who were to become my friends by the end of the evening.
A Prelude To Journeying Across The Himalayas
The event was a little taste of what is to come at the third edition of Journeying Across The Himalayas, scheduled to take place from December 3 to 9 at Travancore Palace in New Delhi. Presented by Royal Enfield Social Mission, the week-long festival will bring together over 100 Himalayan experiences, including art installations, exhibitions, live musical performances, culinary experiences, workshops, and film screenings. Co-curated with Himalayan communities, artists and cultural practitioners, this year’s theme, ‘Becoming’, explores how the region’s stories, traditions and identities continue to evolve in the face of changing climates, landscapes and contemporary realities.
Coming back to the afternoon, as Chef Sadhu introduced us to the menu of the day, I realised it encompassed the entire stretch of the Himalayas, right from Kashmir, also Sadhu’s home, to the north-eastern states. The mountains seeped into the cocktails as well, as I started with the Kinnaur Orchard mocktail, which was the most refreshing combination of apple, ginger and green tea that I had ever tasted. What I loved about it, and it only got reinforced throughout, was that Himalayan ingredients were not just used for the sake of it, but thoughtfully integrated into the recipes. Sadhu had stayed true to his brilliance, of which Naar, his restaurant in Kasauli, is a testament.
Soon, the food menu followed, with a gorgeous bowl of green broth. While it was taking my imagination in all directions, Sadhu reined in my thoughts by introducing his version of the bichu buti, a combination of Himalayan mushroom dumpling with stinging nettle broth. It was my first time trying the stinging nettle, and I loved the warm and earthy flavour of the dish. The bright green gave way to the sombre yellow of the corn custard, which was served with Himalayan cheese bread. The corn custard, along with the cheese, gave this dish a richness that perfectly complemented the slight chill in the Delhi air.
The Women Behind The Himalayan Kitchen
Shashi Kala, who came from a village near Shimla, was sitting next to me at the table. I asked how she was feeling about the dishes. She told me how the ingredients felt familiar, yet the presentations surprised her. This was part of the training that Sadhu had been heading at the Green Hub, which worked in collaboration with the Royal Enfield Social Mission – to teach Himalayan communities more about local ingredients, the diversity of their use and availability, and how to create small businesses out of this knowledge.
While we were immersed in our conversations, the next dish made its way to the table, described as the Sunderkala. This was buckwheat noodles, garlic leaf butter, chicken and tomato sauce, served in a timur broth. Well, that was a lot to unpack. The first bite introduced me to the noodles, which in themselves served as a canvas for the rest of the elements to shine. Have it with more broth and you get the spark of the timur spice, or have it with the sauce and it gets tangy.
By this time, I was in the mood for a cocktail, so the Kharu Highball it was, for how could I miss the opportunity to try seabuckthorn pulp with tequila, topped with apricot soda? All the elements had come together in a salsa of sourness and sweetness, and you simply cannot decide which is overpowering.
Yakhni, the next dish on the menu, was, however, overwhelming. A nod to the people of Kashmir, this lamb came with mushk budji rice and radish chutney. The radish chutney added just enough flavour to the braised lamb, while the mildly spiced rice kept it in good company. With that, it was time for dessert, and we were in for another innovation – this time, almond milk ice cream coupled with ragi cake and chocolate mousse. Each ingredient layered up in the mouth to create a richness that stayed long after the last bite.
Taking The Himalayas Beyond The Plate
Post-lunch, a conversation with Sadhu revealed more about the thought that went behind not only the event but also his long association with the Himalayas. For him, the afternoon was not about showcasing his own culinary skills but bringing the women and their knowledge into focus. Speaking about his experience of working with them, he told me how the learning had been a two-way exchange. The women, many of whom were around his mother’s age, travelled nearly an hour and a half every day to be part of the initiative. Their understanding of ingredients, how to treat them and the different ways in which a single ingredient could be used had been remarkable. He also spoke about learning patience from them, adding that he often felt like a student himself. One example was bichu buti, or stinging nettle, which the women dry, grind into a powder and use in different preparations, including teas. His endeavour, he said, was to document this knowledge so that it could be passed on to the next generation.
For Sadhu, who was born in Kashmir and went on to establish Naar in the mountains, this association has brought his personal and professional journeys together. But he believes that success also comes with responsibility. Through the foundation, he hopes to impact as many lives as possible by creating opportunities for people who may not otherwise have access to them, and helping them develop skills that could eventually allow them to build livelihoods of their own. “There is still much to be done, and the larger question is how one can contribute to the communities and landscapes that have shaped one’s life,” he said.
We also spoke about how Himalayan cuisine is often reduced to familiar offerings such as momos and thukpa, despite the region’s enormous culinary diversity. Sadhu believes that changing this perception begins with changing the conversations around Himalayan food. Much like assuming that everyone in Delhi eats butter chicken, limiting the Himalayas to a handful of popular dishes does little justice to its many culinary traditions. From Kashmir and Himachal to Uttarakhand and the north-eastern states, each region has its own food culture and culinary identity. Through Naar and initiatives such as this, he hopes to broaden that understanding and bring more of these stories to the table. When I asked him about his favourite dish, it did not take him long, for it was rogan josh. “If it were to be my last meal, it would probably be rogan josh.” he smiled.
As I left Qla, the afternoon was slowly giving way to evening. Days are now getting shorter with the approaching winter. But all I could think of, with the cold breeze on my face, was the Himalayas, its people and how intentional a curation had been designed that afternoon.
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