How do you judge a pizza? Let me count the ways. You could look at the sauce-to-toppings ratio. Or, decipher based on the crust crebility (the inconclusive team doughy versus team crispy battle). For me, though, it boils down to one aspect, flavour aside: being able to singlehandedly devour the 12-inch dish in one sitting, like a true Italian would. This is what I call the pizza premise, a basic benchmark for critiquing, which is quite simple. The idea is that when the pizza is made using fresh, authentic ingredients, claiming the full plate becomes easy as pie, quite literally, unlike its heavier fast food counterparts. Size does not matter. And that’s how I was convinced — a Margherita later — that Gustoso knows how it’s done.
The Eyes Eat First
Spoiler alert: the name itself, which roughly translates to “flavourful”, rightfully foreshadows the dining experience that ensues upon visiting the restaurant. My sisters and I are lunching here at midday during the mid-week, eager for a taste of la dolce vita, in the midst of Mumbai. Founded by renowned film actor Juhi Chawla and husband Jay Mehta, Arja Shridhar and Sam Malde, this upscale Italian eatery prides itself on its produce, seasonal menus and pizzas made from scratch. To confirm the latter, I ventured further inside towards Gustoso’s pizzeria section. Here, I witnessed one of the chefs preparing an artisanal pizza in front of me. A glimpse of the tricolour of red, white and green triggered my appetite instantaneously, like Pavlov’s bell. I watched in awe as the chef swiftly picked up the long turning peel and masterfully manoeuvred the baking of the pizza to crispy perfection, whilst rearranging the firewood for fiery results. Within minutes, the dish went from raw to ready, steaming with that signature cornicione crust. I headed back to our table, appetite now teased, ready to dig in.
The Main Course (Read: Character)
We began with antipasti, a plate of patatine al tartufo; essentially crispy fries served with grated parmesan and truffle oil. My 12-year-old sister is not particularly fond of mushroom-based anything, and the staff, upon request, kindly offered to serve a garlic dip alongside. Hot, golden and well-seasoned, we were off to a good start with the fries. The dip, an unassuming scene stealer, became a constant throughout the rest of the meal and paired well with the impending pizza, too. First impressions did last.
Our mains, meanwhile, remained dominated by the Italian classics. We started strong with a penne alla Sorrentina, made using a rich San Marzano tomato-based sauce, mozzarella and finished with a customary garnish (read: heap) of parmesan, as per taste. Piquant to the last penne. Next, we opted for a thin-crust Margherita pizza, which arrived (and disappeared, courtesy of us) in no time. It’s the little things that made a big difference here; the generous spread of sauce, fresh basil, and that drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to turn every bite buono! The best part, though, was the reasonable use of cheese, which did not overpower the flavour of every other ingredient on the slice, a pet peeve that often goes unnoticed. This was a nod to Gustoso’s adherence to taste as opposed to any algorithm, in a refreshing stance.
A Bitter-Sweet Ending
I was anticipating dessert since the start of the meal (and characteristically so) as I’d heard a lot about the tiramisu. We placed an order, only to be told that it was over for the day. “On a Wednesday afternoon?” we asked, in disappointment-bordering-disbelief. “Unfortunately, yes.”. Our dolce far niente dreams were crushed in an anticlimactic instant.
The staff politely suggested alternative dolci instead, and we settled on mousse al cioccolato, an airy, dark chocolate mousse topped with tart raspberries, which came in a small bowl with bold cacao flavours. Good enough to take our minds off the tiramisu (for now).
The Star Dish
To no one’s surprise, the wood-fired Margherita pizza was the undisputed star of the show. The floppy base impressively held its own and bore testament to the pizza’s immortalisation in pop culture. Be it via Julia Roberts’ character in Eat, Pray, Love, or Kevin McCallister in Home Alone, the pizza’s versatility, equal parts bingy and bougie, comes with high stakes and perhaps, higher expectations. Yet, Gustoso delivers on all fronts. It’s everything you would want from an oven-baked, rustic slice: saucy with a bit of charring and ooey-gooey cheesy goodness to slip into culinary coma. However, if you prefer a cracker crust, Scrocchiarella-style pizza, Gustoso, with its stretchy, Neapolitan pies, may leave you hungry for more.
If you’re all about the spice, try the Diavola pizza, which comes with salami and jalapeños. For vegetarians, the Arrabbiata works well, topped with spicy tomato sauce, garlic, and jalapeños. To truly appreciate the artisanal allure of Gustoso, don’t miss the Ravioli Burro E Salvia, delicate pasta parcels duly filled with ricotta and spinach, tossed in a brown butter and sage sauce for a squisito touch of nuttiness.
What’s (A)More?
The ambience acts as a key ingredient in delivering the holistic Gustoso experience. Helmed by Jamini Patel and James Moore, the dimly lit interiors scream Italian chic with veining marble table tops, bespoke chandeliers straight out of Beauty and the Beast, and wall murals that will transport you to Naples, if the dishes haven’t already. If you’re here for an intimate get-together with your trusted bunch, opt to dine in the Villa or Vino section, cleverly cordoned off for utmost privacy. For a romantic dinner, head instead towards the outdoorsy Giardino that, be warned, may look strangely similar to your Italy-inspired Pinterest board.
The restaurant’s location at Kemps Corner, though, lodged at the turning point on the edge of the road, appears slightly abrupt (breathe, for there is valet parking). We bore the bitter brunt of this on another day, for a second visit, when we were turned away, almost rudely, by a member of the staff, who refused to even take down our reservation, barely letting us inside, despite the torrential rain outside. A starkly different experience from our maiden visit. Perhaps a hectic day at the eatery, but one that left a slightly sour taste in the mouth.
Cin Cin!
Gustoso boasts an extensive bar menu, featuring unique cocktails, mocktails, beer, fine wines, and more. I sipped on the non-alcoholic Siam Fresh, a refreshing beverage comprised of citrussy lemongrass syrup, lemon juice, fresh basil and soda, which took me straight to the Amalfi coast. If you’re looking to pair your grub with a glass of red, simply ask the staff for suggestions and they will oblige. There’s also espresso and other coffees on the menu for post-meal indulgence, Italian style.
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