Recently, I came across a concise toolkit: a practical guide that helps you identify authentic Italian restaurants and understand how Italians recognize quality spots. A long menu often signals frozen food—a red flag. Look inside the restaurant, not just online. Locals enjoying their meals and the sound of lively cutlery suggest a good place. Flashy claims like “Best ever dishes” should raise a warning flag. Handwritten, frequently updated daily specials always inspire trust. Also, notice if waiters handle orders calmly or look overwhelmed.
With these tips in mind, I was reminded of Firenze—a new gelateria and café in Delhi’s Defence Colony market that quickly drew crowds. Impatient diners lined up for weeks. When I saw this on Instagram, I knew the city was seeing something new.
So, when Chef Parth Gupta, who is behind Delhi’s gelato movement, invited me, I accepted immediately. Sitting in the small shop with a pistachio gelato, I recalled the rules for spotting authentic Italian restaurants and smiled at how Firenze matched them.
Star Dish
Naturally, a gelato shop that mirrors Italian taste features a classic gelato as its star. Without hesitation, I crown Belgian Cioccolato. Using 55% dark Callebaut couverture and rich Belgian cocoa mass, the team has created a gelato that is bold, refined, indulgent, and beautifully honest. Order it with or without a cone for a true treat.
Other Offerings At Firenze
On the day of my visit, Firenze had just added a mezzanine floor and updated its food and gelato menus. Hard up for time, I made the most of it while I was there and got my beak to nibble on as many nuggets as possible.
Right off the bat, and to get the preliminaries out of the way, one must not miss the Delhi Diavolo sandwich at Firenze. Built in honour of its namesake city, it boasts an Italian base with unapologetic spice. The garlic is dialed up for the Delhi palate.
The Italian grilled cheese sandwich is comfort food, best savoured slowly. Of the new pasta options, the porcini mushroom stood out with its pronounced, earthy flavor. The vodka and pesto pasta let their sauces linger, as good pasta should.
Dessert, unsurprisingly, punctuated the meal. The affogato made a strong impression. The hot chocolate delivered a suitable density. The tiramisu classico—a silky mascarpone swirled with house-made coffee sauce, folded through Kahlúa-soaked ladyfinger bites, and finished with cocoa—won glowing recommendations and appreciation for all the right reasons.
The Story Of Firenze
Unlike many other spots across the city, a visit to Firenze won’t overwhelm you. The shop is fueled by Chef Parth Gupta’s love and passion for gelato. His journey with the Italian dessert began on his first solo trip to Italy, where the variety and quality of the dessert imprssed him. He visited renowned shops across the country that is known as the Mecca of gelato.
That early passion deepened when Chef Gupta attended a gelato-making masterclass in Italy, and delved deeper into the science behind the dessert. Returning to Delhi, he discovered that local standards fell short of what he had tasted abroad. Inspired by his experiences and newly acquired skills, Gupta envisioned Firenze as a way to bring true Italian gelato to the city, transforming his enthusiasm into a dedicated pursuit.
Firenze, meaning Florence in Italian, sits just off the street on the ground floor. It opens up vertically, resembling a narrow room drawn by Giovanni Piranesi. The compact space, with Florentine decor, Romanesque sculptures, vintage cutlery, and soft lighting, creates a cosy atmosphere. Rather than diminishing the experience, the narrow room concentrates it, focusing attention on the handcrafted gelatos inspired by Italian flavours.
Now, if you find yourself searching for the perfect dessert in the lanes of Defence Colony, let Firenze top your list. Well, of course, go for the gelato and ice cream, but also the Italian-inspired look and the lively effect it dances on your senses. More importantly, go for the playlist. While I was there, I was captivated by the mix of dim Renaissance-style lighting and vocal and traditional jazz.
From its brief but lively history: just three days after opening, queues spilled onto the street. Still, it’s not too bad—Gupta reassures that when lines get long, the staff offer waiting guests a cup of hot chocolate.
