On a blazing Delhi afternoon, don’t ask why I was wearing suede loafers, I found myself drifting down Lodhi Road like a curious tourist in my own city. Indian Accent awaited, tucked somewhere at the curve where modern gastronomy meets timeless wit. If you haven’t yet heard of this culinary institution, welcome to the bubble, burst it. What began with Chef Manish Mehrotra creating edible poetry is now under the confident hands of Chef Shantanu Mehrotra, who’s quietly reshaping its narrative like a writer of a sequel that actually works. The plating? Impeccably precise, bordering on sculptural.
Whispers Of Indian Soul
But beneath the polished veneer lies something deeply familiar, flavours that don’t “perform,” but rather, whisper stories of India. These aren’t new sensations but old memories, lovingly reimagined. Take, for example, the ratalu shaami, a violet-hued yam turned intrepid kebab, paired with papad kataifi that crackled like a sly wink. Or the achari paneer Banarasi aloo, a dish that marries familiar spices to sophisticated plating like a gala-ready sari. It started humbly, with a piece of naan.
Not the iconic blue cheese naan, mind you, but a bold usurper, caramelised onion and cheddar naan that arrived warm, nutty, and unapologetically comforting, like a plush armchair for your taste buds. Served alongside a shot of aloo methi shorba, its earthy depth surprised me, an unexpectedly winning combination of potato and fenugreek that charmed. I asked for seconds, shamelessly. At first glance, khakra, vatana, and dhokla could pass for a minimalist canapé. One bite in, though, it shape-shifts into Gujarat on a plate. The khakra base is crisp and nutty, the green pea mash lush and earthy, and the topping, a crumble of khaman dhokla, brings zing and nostalgia. It’s a bite-sized time machine.
The Star Dish
Now, let’s talk about “that” rawa-crusted sea bass, the star that earned its place, applause, and, dare I say, an encore. Think of the crust as a taut drum skin, audibly crisp but scandalously thin, giving way to sea bass so tender it felt illegal. The sol kadhi, ah, the fiery tang with its coconut undertones, kissed the palate while the koshihikari rice offered polite companionship, balancing the bold with the restrained. It left me with one burning question: Did Chef Shantanu dream this up in his sleep, or was there sorcery involved? His tasting menu doesn’t shout for your attention. Instead, it unfolds, dish by dish, a quiet but compelling revelation. Each plate feels crafted with intention, rooted in heritage, and finished with finesse. Would I return? Without hesitation, and preferably, with stretchy pants. But honestly, yes, “for the sea bass.” It’s a dish you make plans around.
Comfort Meets Culinary Art
The congee, meanwhile, is a hug in a bowl. Creamy, soulful, and slow cooked to comfort food perfection. But then, surprise. Crispy shards of green jackfruit disrupt the silkiness with a welcome crunch, while pickled narthangai rind adds a punch of citrusy sharpness. It’s simple and complex all at once, as though the southern coast of India wrote a poem and served it warm. The strawberry kala khatta? A playful palate cleanser that jolted me straight back to my street-food-fuelled childhood. But here’s the wildcard: the malpua crepe suzette. Forget the sea bass for a moment (if you can), this dessert, with its caramelized edges and tender coconut-dark chocolate interplay, deserves “its own stage.”
Flavour Reigns Supreme
All in all, this fine dining space is a quiet manifesto where food leads, and everything else falls gracefully into place. The marble floors and tables dressed in crisp white linens whisper sophistication, while the bar, a glowing onyx monolith, steals the show like the golden hero of a Bollywood epic. Go for the wine pairing and you are sorted. The space? Polished but warm, with whispers of conversations that felt like part of the design. It’s clear: this isn’t a place chasing trends or Instagram accolades. The tasting menu feels unapologetically rooted, celebrating India’s kaleidoscope of flavours with precision and flair. Here, taste outshines theatrics, your palate, not your camera, wins. Would I return? If not for the sea bass, then for the quiet thrill of innovation undercut with heritage.
