When my friend Antonella invited me for breakfast one morning, I went along expecting a hot Caffe e cornetto, very much the usual Italian breakfast fare. Imagine my surprise when a warm, golden-brown brioche made an appearance, straight out of the oven, with nothing less than a lush, coffee-flavoured gelato sitting snugly inside! Who eats ice cream for breakfast, one could ask. ‘We Sicilians do,’ pat came the reply, of course.
Thus began my long love affair with the seductive foodscape of this wonderful island. You’ve got to love people who eat ice cream for breakfast, after all!
Sicily is a continent unto itself. Its varied landscape of food and culture is not just distinctly different from the mainland but the result of numerous past conquests by the Phoenicians of North Africa, the Arabs, Greeks, Romans, Normans, and Spanish, among others. Sicily remains an enthralling mosaic of many different people, their stories, and their history.
Here are some adored Sicilian delicacies that have made it to our hearts, inspired by the island’s storied past:
Arancini
One of the most popular items to have made it to modern-day cocktail parties is deep-fried balls filled with creamy risotto and a melting mozzarella centre. What’s not to love, right? Arancini is plural for arancia, or orange and is shaped like little roundels of breaded and fried goodness. Though risotto is the most popular filling, it isn’t unusual to find arancini with slow-cooked mincemeat or ragu stuffing in Eastern Sicily, in slightly conical shapes inspired by the awe-inspiring local fixture, Mt Etna.
Where to find it? Sfrigola Palermo is known for its artisanal arancini. Think swordfish with eggplant. They also have baked varieties.
Cannoli
These delightful ‘little tubes’ were earlier made and eaten during the Carnival, but now they are enjoyed all year round. Emblematic of Southern Italy’s dessert culture, these little tubes of hardshell pastry are filled with sweet ricotta. Sometimes candied lemons and oranges are folded into the filling, lending a delightful element of surprise. The ends are dusted off with a sprinkling of pistachios.
Where to find it? Pasticceria Maria Grammatico—Erice is known for its Sicilian cannoli and is open since 1940. Maria Grammatico spent 15 years in a convent as an orphan and mastered the art of convent pastry-making.
Caponata
The Sicilian Caponata is a hearty side dish made with fried eggplant, capers, olives, tomatoes, celery, raisins and pine nuts. The gravy has a bold agrodolce (sweet n sour) accent brought on by the interplay of sweet (honey and raisins) and sour (capers, vinegar, tomatoes) elements. The star item is certainly the aubergine, another gift from the Arab past of Sicily, brought to the island by Muslim traders. The origin and etymology of the word caponata are highly debated, but one thing is certain. It is literally a ‘melting pot’ of many influences – raisins and nuts from the Arabs, olives from the Greeks and tomatoes from the Spaniards.
Where to find it? Osteria Ballarò is rustic and traditional, serving up the best caponata in all of Sicily.
Cassata
This densely decadent sponge cake is iconic of Sicilian Easter, but now, it is found all year. Carefully constructed from sponge cake, sweet ricotta and chocolate, bound together with hard glaze and decorated with candied fruits and icing, it screams celebration. A sugar syrup mixed with marsala or rum is used to liven up the sponge cake base. The designs on top and candied fruit lend an opulence to this timeless dessert, strangely delicate to the taste. The almonds and citrus are a nod to the Arab past, while the sponge cake, called “Pan di Spagna” or Spanish Bread in Italian, is a reference to that culture. This grand celebration is a work of art in itself and is eaten widely throughout all parts of the island. Whatever you do, please don’t refer to it as the Cassata Cake, similar to the annoying nomenclature, Chai Tea. It’s simply that. Cassata.
Where to find it? Accardi Pasticceria in Palermo has an innovative “Arancia in fiore” cassata with a puff pastry base and rum-soaked raisins, redolent with oranges
Granita
This delightful summer-in-a cup sweet treat is the close cousin of slush, but never tell the Sicilians that. Made with a varied range of flavours ranging from almond, strawberry, pistachio or coffee, it is just as enjoyable by itself or inside a brioche and eaten as the locals do, for breakfast. My favourite has always been lemon with that burst of citrus…. just a beautiful reminder of the good life in the Sicilian sunshine.
Where to find it? Enjoy a unique granita-making experience in Mt Etna at www.isolanipercaso.com/granita-demonstration-and-tasting-etna/
Sicily may have a distinctive stroke when it comes to the unique foods that have been influenced by its history. But the markets bear a strong resemblance to the rest of Italy. Bustling with action, the fish markets are where the fervour is unmistakable. On a food trail of Catania, during a pit stop at “Scirocco” Sicilian Fish Lab, one can witness all the action unfold right in the heart of the busy fish market, sample the fresh fare served in typical paper cones while absorbing the atmosphere over a chilled artisanal beer. A great way to end a gastronomic jaunt through Sicily.
