Once the glorious capital of a great South Indian empire, the ruined city of Hampi still fascinates with its rich history, striking architecture, and timeless charm. Four dynasties of the Vijayanagara Empire ruled a vast kingdom over two centuries (1336- 1565 AD), and wine was very much part of everyday life. The Ramayana tells the story of how King Sugriva’s private vineyard on the outskirts of Hampi was plundered by a marauding band of vanaras celebrating Hanuman’s successful search for Sita.
In Search Of The Sura
A two-hour drive north of Hampi takes you up a gentle hill to the serene setting of the KRSM winery. Named for a union of the founders’ first names, Krishna Prasad and Uma Chigurupati (Krs-Ma), the story of how this winery came into being. The young Krishna first tasted wine as a schoolboy through the local bishop who had imported some from the Vatican. Hooked at first sip, he began experimenting by producing them in his backyard. Then the real-life business took over, and he spent the next two decades building up a very successful granules business before returning to his passion in 2007 with his wife. The opportunity came in the distress sale of a parcel of land under wine cultivation by a local farmers’ cooperative at that time.
The Terroir Plays A Role
While the limestone, mineral-rich soil and dry weather with minimal rainfall were ideal for grape cultivation, other challenges of the terroir were daunting. Water had to be pumped from three kilometres away; the rocky nature of the ground meant no topsoil, and a trained workforce was scarce in this remote outpost. Little by little, through sheer grit and determination, Krishna and Uma overcame these obstacles, and the proof of their blood, sweat, and tears now stands in a wine that has won accolades on the world stage. A remarkable achievement given that they have been around for less than a decade.
We are given a quick tour of the fermentation tanks, laboratory, and the barrel cellar before settling down for a vertical tasting of the Sauvignon Blanc (2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018 vintages). The first thing one notices is the distinctive logo, which speaks of refinement and sophistication, referencing the Vijayanagara Empire. As far as the wine itself went, I particularly liked the most recent vintage, which was a pale lemon hue. It had an excellent balance and structure, with a neat acidity which made its presence felt without being overwhelming, and a medium-long finish.
After the tasting, we are taken to the 160-acre vineyards, 50 of which are being harvested while 50 are under plantation. The greenery contrasts with the arid landscape, making it a veritable oasis in the Hampi Hills. The couple is proud to have raised the water table with their irrigation efforts, thereby sparking a resurgence of cash crop cultivation in the area.
Tasting The Drink Of Kings
Pre-monsoon showers have begun in the region, and we see the lowering sky. The Cabernet Sauvignon tasting awaits us, and with the breeze picking up, we decide to move to the small lawn outside the stone winery building. But the wind is too strong, shattering a couple of wine glasses. Sprawling indolently on the grass with a glass in hand is much better. We taste the 2012, 2014, and 2015 vintages, and it is immediately clear that the first is KRSMA’s pride and joy, with the unique minerality of the soil coming straight through the wine. Made in the classic New World style, it is redolent of dark fruit, and the tannins have softened sufficiently to create an excellent balance.
It has been a wonderful end to the day, and we linger over the wine, as storm clouds scud across the sky. We are reluctant to break the spell by leaving. Luckily, the excellent wines from this estate are available freely at good liquor stores in Bengaluru.
Information
Address: 24/1/3, Zhoolkunti Village,Tavaregere Post, Kushtagi Taluk
Koppal District, Karnataka, India – 583279
Contact – +919449055260 | krsmaestates.com
