In Kolkata, Durga Puja is never just about the idols, the elaborate pandals or the artistic installations that transform neighbourhoods into open-air galleries. It is also about the food. As the city slips into its festive best, streets fill with revellers, food stalls spring up around pandals, and familiar neighbourhood haunts find themselves catering to crowds that seem to have endless appetites. For many, pandal hopping is as much a culinary expedition as it is a celebration of the goddess.
The beauty of eating during Puja is that there is no need to sit down for a formal meal. You can follow the crowds, stop at a roadside stall, eat something standing up, and move on to the next neighbourhood. The choices range from Bengali favourites that have fed generations to the city’s much-loved snacks that reflect its layered culinary history. If you are planning to explore Kolkata on foot this Durga Puja, leave some room in your itinerary, and your stomach, for these street foods.
Phuchka
Few foods inspire as much devotion in Kolkata as phuchka. Similar in appearance to the golgappa found elsewhere in India, this Bengali street-food staple has a personality of its own. The crisp, hollow puri is filled with a mixture of boiled potatoes, black chickpeas, spices and green chillies, then dipped into a sharp, tamarind-infused water that delivers a burst of tanginess with every bite.
The potato filling is often mashed by hand, seasoned generously and adjusted to suit the preferences of regular customers. Some stalls offer extra tamarind water, a squeeze of lime or a fiery green chilli kick. During Puja, phuchka stalls are almost impossible to miss near busy pandals. Follow the queues, watch the vendor’s quick hands and join the crowd. Just remember that one plate is rarely enough.
Kathi Roll
Kolkata’s iconic roll features a flaky paratha wrapped around a filling of kebab, egg, vegetables or a combination of these, with sliced onions, green chillies and a dash of tangy sauce.
The city’s roll culture is closely associated with Nizam’s, the historic restaurant credited with popularising the kathi roll. Over time, the humble street-side version has evolved into countless variations, from egg rolls and chicken rolls to double-egg, double-chicken combinations that make a substantial meal.
A freshly prepared roll is particularly appealing during a long night of pandal hopping. The paratha is cooked on a hot griddle, sometimes with an egg spread across its surface, before the filling and condiments are tucked inside. Wrapped in paper, it is easy to carry while navigating the crowds. It is also one of the most practical options when you need something substantial without losing precious time in a restaurant.
Telebhaja
There is something irresistible about a freshly fried snack, particularly when it is served hot from a large kadhai (or wok). Telebhaja, which broadly refers to Bengali deep-fried fritters, is a favourite across Kolkata. Depending on the stall and the season, the selection may include beguni (batter-fried brinjal), alur chop (spiced potato fritters), peyaji (onion fritters) and other vegetables dipped in gram-flour batter before being fried to a crisp.
The contrast between the crunchy exterior and the soft, flavourful filling is what makes these snacks so appealing. A sprinkle of salt, perhaps a green chilli on the side, are often all that is needed.
During Puja, they offer a quick, inexpensive snack between pandals. Pair them with a cup of cha (tea) if you have time to pause, or eat them while they are still hot before heading back into the festive rush.
Ghugni
For a snack that is distinctly Bengali and deeply satisfying, look for ghugni. Made with dried yellow peas or white peas cooked until tender, this street-side preparation is simmered with spices and often finished with chopped onions, green chillies, coriander and a squeeze of lime. Some vendors add tamarind water, while others offer a richer gravy.
Ghugni is commonly served in small bowls or paper cups, making it easy to eat while standing near a pandal. Its appeal lies in its simplicity: soft peas, warm spices and fresh garnishes come together to create a dish that is hearty without being heavy.
Aloo Kabli
If phuchka is the undisputed crowd-puller, aloo kabli is another Kolkata street-food favourite worth seeking out. At its simplest, it combines boiled potatoes with chickpeas, chopped onions, green chillies, spices and a tangy dressing made with tamarind or lime. The result is a punchy mixture that balances heat, sourness and the earthy flavour of potatoes.
Unlike deep-fried snacks, aloo kabli feels relatively light, making it a welcome choice when you are eating your way through several neighbourhoods. Vendors mix the ingredients together in front of customers, adjusting the seasoning and chilli levels according to individual preferences.
Mughlai Paratha
For those who prefer their street food substantial, Mughlai paratha is a Kolkata classic. This deep-fried or shallow-fried stuffed flatbread typically contains a mixture of egg, minced meat and spices, although versions with different fillings are also available. The dough is folded around the filling and cooked until the exterior turns crisp and golden.
Often served with potato curry, sliced onions or a tangy accompaniment, Mughlai paratha is not the lightest snack on this list. It is, however, a rewarding choice if you are hungry after hours of walking through the city’s crowded lanes.
The dish reflects Kolkata’s long history of culinary exchange, with Mughlai influences becoming part of the city’s everyday food culture. During Puja, when late-night appetites are common and the streets remain lively, a portion of Mughlai paratha can easily stand in for dinner.
Dimer Devil
A familiar sight at Bengali snack counters, the dimer devil is a more elaborate treat than its name might suggest. A boiled egg is enclosed in a spiced mixture of minced meat or mashed potato, coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried until golden. Some versions use a combination of egg and potato, while others feature a meatier filling.
The result is crisp on the outside, soft within and full of flavour. Cut open, it reveals the egg at the centre, surrounded by a seasoned layer that can be gently spiced or quite robust, depending on the cook.
Although often associated with Bengali tea-time snacks and festive gatherings, the dimer devil also fits neatly into a Puja food trail. It is best eaten hot, with a little kasundi or a sharp sauce if available. Look for it at established snack shops and local counters rather than assuming every temporary street stall will serve it.
Mishti
No Kolkata food trail feels complete without something sweet. While the city is famous for its extensive repertoire of Bengali sweets, sandesh and rosogolla are particularly easy choices to seek out between pandals. Rosogolla consists of soft chenna dumplings soaked in light sugar syrup, while sandesh is made from fresh chenna and can range from delicately sweet, soft varieties to firmer versions shaped into intricate designs.
You could also look for chomchom, a traditional sweet with a richer texture, or a small portion of mishti doi, sweetened yoghurt that is often served in earthen pots. The choice depends on your appetite, but even one sweet is enough to provide a fitting end to a savoury-heavy trail.
During Durga Puja, sweet shops across Kolkata display their wares in abundance, and many neighbourhoods have long-established favourites. Pick up a sweet to eat on the way to your next pandal, or save it for a brief pause before the night’s festivities continue.
Read more: Chef Sujan Sarkar On His Memories Of Pujo And Reconnecting With His Roots
Also read: These 7 Spots Are A Must-Visit To Enjoy Kolkata’s Indo-Chinese Cuisine
