The Kanyakumari Crab From Indian Accent’s New Menu, Steals The Spotlight

Sixteen years is an odd milestone. It is not as ceremonious as ten and not as smug as twenty. Yet, for a restaurant that has shaped the vocabulary of modern Indian dining, sixteen feels symbolic. It signals endurance, evolution, and the confidence of a place that no longer needs to prove anything. Walking into Indian Accent at The Lodhi, the feeling is immediate. The space is warm and measured. The lighting glows low and golden. Conversations are hushed without being stiff. Nothing screams for attention. Everything is deliberate.

There is a calm theatricality to the room. Servers glide across the floor with a kind of practised graciousness that never feels intrusive. Even before the first course arrives, you sense that the restaurant still holds itself to a high standard. It is the kind of place where one naturally straightens their posture ever so slightly. Indian Accent has always inspired that kind of respect.

This year, the new tasting menu comes from Executive Chef Shantanu Mehrotra, who is celebrating his own milestone. However, he was not in the kitchen on the day I visited. Stepping in was Head Chef Hitesh Lohat. “This menu is a little bit of nostalgia and a little bit of now,” he tells me with a wide crescent. “Some dishes are seasonal, and some are our greatest hits for guests who have been with us from the beginning.” He speaks with the ease of someone who has seen the entire arc of Delhi’s dining scene, from diner classics and pan-Asian hits to the polished modern Indian plate he now leads.

His culinary memory lane is woven gently through the tasting menu. There are nods to Chor Bizarre (an authentic Indian restaurant in Chandni Chowk), which celebrates thirty-five years soon. There are influences from kitchens he worked in long before Indian Accent existed. There is a clear respect for heritage, but also a refusal to be stuck in it. That combination becomes the backbone of the new tasting experience.

Indian Accent has always been a master of the opening notes. The new menu begins with a dish that feels comforting yet intriguing. Dahi gujiya, a festive classic from North India, arrives as a refined little parcel. The outer shell is delicate. The yoghurt is cool and silky. The surprise comes from the addition of cherries, which lift the richness with a playful brightness. It is the kind of beginning that makes you sit up slightly straighter. You know the meal is about to go somewhere interesting.

For those on the non-vegetarian menu, the next stop is coastal. The Kanyakumari crab in mustard and coconut is easily the standout of the evening. The crab is fresh and sweet. The mustard is aromatic without overwhelming. A crisp appalam serves as the crunchy stage upon which everything comes together. It is fragrant, light, and perfectly balanced. It is also the dish that makes you quietly regret that the tasting menu format does not allow second servings.

The vegetarian counterpart is no less delightful. The apple eggplant bhaja arrives crisp and lightly caramelised. It is paired with panch phoran (meaning a five spices) orzo, which is comforting and mellow. A velvety kasundi malai ties everything together with that unmistakable mustard warmth that Bengal does so well. It is a plate that shows restraint while acknowledging the boldness of regional flavours.

Chef Shantanu’s tribute to the early days of his journey arrives through two Kashmiri dishes. For the non-vegetarian tasting, the aab gosht with lamb dumpling sits in a soft, milky broth that tastes like something born out of memory rather than technique. Traditional aab gosht is rustic and hearty. Here, it is elegant and soothing. The dumpling is tender and soaks in the broth like a sponge. It is nostalgia dressed for an evening out.

Vegetarians receive an equally thoughtful version. The lotus root and water chestnut dumpling in yakhni creates texture without losing the delicacy of the dish. The broth is aromatic with cardamom and fennel and feels as if it has been simmered just long enough for the flavours to merge without overpowering the palate.

Then comes the dish that has sparked several gentle debates around city dinner tables. The spiced confit duck with popcorn upma is either genius or brave, depending on who you ask. For me, it is a moment of cleverness executed with sincerity. The duck is tender and rich. The popcorn upma, with its nutty aroma and soft crunch, adds character without taking itself too seriously. It is playful but not gimmicky. It works.

At this point, the meal has travelled through coast, valley, plains, and memories. You feel the layers, the quiet storytelling, the intention behind each addition. The menu is not trying to shock. It is trying to speak.

Before the dessert arrives, a palate cleanser appears in a cool splash of citrus. The Nagpur orange and tulsi sorbet is bright and refreshing. The fragrance of tulsi softens the intensity of the orange and creates a clean, almost meditative pause between the final savoury notes and the upcoming sweetness. It is a small portion, but it does exactly what it should. You feel reset. The evening feels ready for its gentle finish.

Desserts at Indian Accent have always leaned toward refinement rather than drama. The new tasting menu follows that philosophy. The concluding plate brings together custard apple cream, salted makhana chikki and berries. The custard apple is light and creamy. The makhana chikki adds a soft crunch with a hint of salt. The berries brighten the plate without overwhelming it. It is subtle, comforting and elegantly understated. Dessert lovers will appreciate the restraint.

A good tasting menu is as much about flow as it is about flavour. It has a narrative quality. It showcases technique without losing authenticity. It respects tradition but refuses to become predictable. It takes seasonal ingredients and colours them with regional memories. It is confident without being clever for the sake of it. And Indian Accent 16th anniversary menu leaves no box unticked.