A Step Closer To Understanding Himachal Pradesh’s Rich And Diverse Cuisine

It was 2016, and I was at the Johnson’s Lodge in Manali for a family vacation. Each morning for breakfast, Aisha, the caretaker, served us handpicked apples and plums from the lodge’s orchard. Being from Jaipur, eating something that was freshly off the tree was a rare experience. But for the people of Himachal Pradesh, it is their way of life. “We eat a lot of what we grow,” Aisha told us. 

Himachalis are simple people, and this simplicity is reflected in their cuisine. “Unlike Punjabis and Gujaratis, the people of the land don’t live to eat but eat to live. Food is only a means of sustenance,” said Chef Sherry Mehta, who has been working towards bringing the state’s cuisine to the country’s map. 

However, the simplicity does not imply a lack of richness in the cuisine. A standout characteristic of Himachal’s cuisine is its regional diversity. Across the state’s 12 cities, the dishes, their ingredients, and cooking techniques adapt to the climatic conditions. “In areas of low altitude, people use wheat, but as you go to areas in Kinnaur and other high altitude regions, you will find a lot of people instead using buckwheat,” said Chef Nitika Kuthiala, a researcher and home chef of the Himachali cuisine.

She also mentioned how ghee, which protects the body against harsh winter months, becomes an essential ingredient for people in high-altitude areas like Solan and Shimla. Talking about cooking techniques, Kuthiala said, “While Himachali cuisine relies largely on slow cooking (because many families still cook on a chulha), steaming in cooler climates and frying in warmer climates are other cooking techniques.” 

More About The Cuisine

Fermentation is a cooking technique prevalent in Himachali cuisine. Most of their breads, including khameer, bhaturu, babru, and siddu, are made from fermented dough. “It would be fair to say that sourdough breads arrived in Himachal Pradesh much before the world knew about them,” said Mehta. 

Talking about ingredients intrinsic to the cuisine, she mentioned mustard oil, yoghurt, and whole spices like fennel seeds and asafoetida. Since most Himachali households also own cattle, their food largely depends on dairy products such as buttermilk and ghee. 

Due to extreme climatic conditions in various parts of the state, some areas don’t receive vegetables year-round. It is under these circumstances that they rely on lentils, pulses, and dry meat. 

The Story Of Dham: One Of Himachal Pradesh’s Most Loved Dishes

Some dishes define a cuisine. For the people of Himachal Pradesh, introducing you to their cuisine would be done with Dham. It is a traditional, multi-course festive feast that graces every celebration, from weddings to birthday parties and childbirth in Himachal Pradesh. 

Each region has a different way of preparing its Dham. A Chambyali Dham from Chamba will be different from the Kangri Dham from Kangra.

The tradition of Dham can be traced to the arrival of Raja Meru, a descendant of Lord Ram, to the mountains of Himachal Pradesh for tapasya. “According to legend, one of Raja Meru’s grandsons was so enamoured by the Kashmiri cuisine that he sent people to recreate these Kashmiri dishes in local Chamba tradition,” narrated Mehta. The Dham is considered a vegetarian version of the Kashmiri wazwan, encompassing the entire spectrum of harvest from Himachal. It was offered to Gods and Goddesses and was earlier only available in temples. 

Today, the tradition is carried forward by Brahmin chefs called Botis who prepare Dham in copper or brass vessels. It is usually served on pattals (paper/leaf plates) and enjoyed by diners who sit on the floor. 

The highlight of Dham is madra—a kind of curry that is slow-cooked over a low flame, usually in a brass vessel. It primarily includes chickpeas cooked in a yoghurt gravy. The madra preparation varies from one region to another—sepubadi madra (Mandi), kaala chana madra (Chamba), safed chana madra, rajma madra, and guchhi madra are some examples.

Other Dishes That Lie At The Heart Of The Cuisine

Siddu 

Siddu is a traditional Himachali bread prepared from fermented wheat dough and stuffed with a savoury or sweet filling, such as lentil paste, poppy seeds, or nuts. It is mainly prepared in Mandi, Kullu, Manali, Rohru, and Shimla, and is believed to have its origins in Tibet. Siddu is usually consumed with desi ghee (clarified butter), dal, or enjoyed with green chutney (made from fresh mint). 

Patrodu

Patrodu is a traditional, savoury Himachali dish that is made from colocasia leaves (locally known as arbi ke patte or taro leaves) and a spiced gram flour (besan) batter.

Babru

Babru is a the Himachali counterpart of a kachori. This dish features flattened bread or puri made from wheat flour and a flavorful black gram paste filling. The dish is usually served with a sweet tamarind chutney. When paired with a steaming cup of tea, it will make for a great evening snack for the nippy months.

Aktori

Aktori is a delectable cake or pancake made from the buckwheat leaves. To make aktori, buckwheat leaves are cooked with wheat flour, milk, water, sugar, and baking soda. It is prepared during feativals and can elevate its taste by drizzling it with ghee or honey. Eateries in Spiti Valley and Lahaul offer authentic aktori.

Read more: A Closer Look At The Bhatkal Cuisine Of The Navayath Muslims Of Karnataka

Also read: Chef Rukhsaar Sayeed On Kashmiri Cuisine & Dishes That Lie At Its Heart