Restaurateur Amit Bagga On His Success Mantra And Running A Legacy Diner

My brush with Daryaganj’s culinary marvels was when a friend dragged me to eat what she called, “the best dal makhani in Delhi.” I found little ground in her claim, owing to the Delhiite instinct of giving “the best” tag to anything and everything. 

Well, proven wrong and how!

A confession from that day: If there is a dal makhani as creamy and well done as Bukhara’s, it’s the one served at Daryaganj. Founded by Kundan Lal Jaggi in 1947, the restaurant is one of the handful that have stood the test of time in the capital. 

Today, ace restaurateur and co-founder Amit Bagga takes the restaurant’s delicious dishes to a fine-dine setting with Daryaganj Gold in Aerocity. When the news reached me, the idea of taking Daryaganj into a formal setting confused me, but sitting across from Bagga who explained the concept with gusto and fed with love, I was convinced. 

Rooted While Embracing Innovation: The Menu At Daryaganj Gold  

What truly convinced me about the restaurant’s merit was the fact that, along with innovative and impressive additions to the menu, they chose to retain classics that one would visit Daryaganj for.  Along with their iconic butter chicken and everyone’s (and my) favourite dal makhani, the roster features a dedicated chaat selection that celebrates India’s street food culture through creations such as Dahi Bhalla Bingsu, Gol Gappa Trio and Mushroom Ram Ladoo, alongside signature dishes like the 24 Karat Mutton Biryani and India Gate Avocado Bhel Puri.

On my visit to the restaurant, Bagga also spoke about reviving recipes like Nargasi Kofta and Jelly Fruit Cream Custard from Jaggi’s archives, that are otherwise not served at other outlets across the country.  Hopping on the theatrics trend, they also serve Five Senses Curries that are designed to engage guests through aroma, sound, visual theatre, and flavour, basically all their five senses. 

“While experimenting and innovating, we ensured that the the soul of Daryaganj remains intact,” claimed Bagga. 

The Story Of Daryaganj Gold

When I asked Bagga about why he decided to pluck Daryaganj out of its raw and rustic form and plant it in an upscale setting, he said, “For us, the decision came from a very simple belief: the cuisine we celebrate at Daryaganj deserves a platform that does justice to the richness of its heritage.” The concept had been in the works for over a year and while it was first introduced in Bangkok in May 2025 with the launch of the first Daryaganj outpost, overseas, the Aerocity outlet is the first of its kind in India.

“We spent nearly six months intentionally and carefully refining the menu, conducting extensive trials and testing close to 50 dishes before arriving at the final selection that land on your plates today,” added Bagga. On the authenticity Vs. innovation debate, Bagga believes that innovation is not the name of changing what people already love but about thoughtfully building upon one’s heritage while remaining rooted in flavours, culinary traditions, and recipes.

Amit Bagga On His Success Mantra And Delhi’s Food Space

It is no secret that Delhi loves its food. But it equally not a hidden fact that to sustain as a restaurant in Delhi not just requires quality and flavour in terms of food but also the right strategy. When I asked Bagga about his success mantra to keeping Daryaganj relevant even after eight decades of its opening, he said, “success for me is ultimately when every diner walks out with a memorable experience worth returning for.”

He also mentioned how the success of a restaurant is more than just the food on the plate. “While chefs are the custodians of the cuisine, the role to bring together all the different elements that create a memorable guest experience is where the real trick is. I often compare it to being the conductor of an orchestra. The conductor may not play every instrument, but their role is to ensure that everything comes together in perfect harmony,” he added.

Below are the excerpts from the interview    

What is your success mantra in one of the least profitable businesses in the world?

I believe that if each customer can walk out with a memorable experience worth returning for, nothing else matters. No matter how much the brand grows, success is ultimately defined by that one experience. It is what stays with them, what brings them back, and what builds the brand over time.

This conviction is what led us to embed our Five Senses philosophy into everything we do and build a culture that is completely centred around the customer. Every decision, whether it relates to food, service, ambience or hospitality, is viewed through the lens of the guest experience. And that is my final matra to a successful stint in this business. 

At a time when everyone wants to open a restaurant in Delhi, what is your take on the city’s current food space?

Delhi’s food scene is undoubtedly booming and perhaps more exciting than it has ever been. Consumers are well-travelled, highly aware and constantly looking for new experiences, which has created tremendous opportunities for the industry.

At the same time, it is a very competitive market. Guests today have endless choices, and that means restaurants are constantly being challenged to deliver exceptional food, service, and overall experiences. In many ways, it is a survival-of-the-fittest environment where only brands with a strong foundation and clear identity are able to sustain themselves over the long term.

For anyone looking to enter the industry, passion is important, but so is experience. The restaurant business is far more complex than it may appear from the outset, and success requires a deep understanding of operations, consistency, hospitality, and customer expectations. In a market as evolved as Delhi, relying on beginner’s luck is rarely enough.

That said, the city’s appetite for dining out continues to grow, which makes it an incredibly exciting place for brands that are willing to invest in quality, authenticity and long-term thinking.

What are five things that restaurateurs of the day should remember before they venture into a new project?

If I had to narrow it down to five things, the first would be choosing the right location. No matter how good the concept is, the location has to support it.

Second is ensuring that the concept and cuisine are right for the market. What works in one city, neighbourhood, or catchment may not necessarily work in another. Understanding your audience is critical.

Third is getting the pricing right. The offering has to make sense for the market you are entering and align with what guests are willing to spend while still delivering value.

Fourth is creating the right ambience and experience. The design, interiors, and overall vibe should be relevant to the location and the audience you are trying to attract.

Finally, it all comes down to execution, i.e. having the right team, serving great food that keeps guests coming back time and again consistently. 

Being a non-chef restaurateur, are things more challenging for you?

Not really. In fact, I often see it as an advantage.

I have always believed that a restaurant is much more than just the food on the plate. While chefs are the custodians of the cuisine, my role is to bring together all the different elements that create a memorable guest experience. I often compare it to being the conductor of an orchestra. The conductor may not play every instrument, but their role is to ensure that everything comes together in perfect harmony. In the same way, my responsibility is to align the food, service, hospitality, operations and overall vision of the brand.

Being a non-chef also allows me to look at the business from a slightly more objective perspective and, most importantly, through the eyes of the guest. That balance has been incredibly valuable in helping us build Daryaganj into what it is today.

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