I remember interviewing Chef Gaggan Anand almost a year ago and asking, “Do you have any plans for India?”
“We will wait and watch,” he said in his classic, vaguely mysterious tone.
A year and a few months later, the wait is over with major news in India’s food space. It also marks the maverick’s homecoming with Raga, his first restaurant in the country. It will launch on August 26 at the former Masala Library site in New Delhi’s Janpath. I am glad he chose Delhi and not Mumbai. Now we have a chance to tell all those who pride themselves on Bombay’s food scene, “You might have Papa’s and Masque, we have GAGGAN!”
Raga marks a collaboration between India’s biggest restaurateur, Zorawar Kalra and one of the most innovative (and daring) Indian chefs in the world. The name suggests an interesting link, though it is not verified. It combines the ‘RA’ of ZoRAwar and the ‘GA’ of GAggan. If Gaggan and Zorawar didn’t think of it, you can still thank the pairing with a meal at Raga.
Jokes apart, it is actually the coming together of RA for Rydo Anton and GA for Gaggan Anand himself.
But I am also sure the name reflects Gaggan’s love for dance and music. He is best known for creating theatre while serving his guests, with great music, servers dancing around, and delicious food landing on your plates.
What Do We Know About Raga?
When it has anything to do with Gaggan, whether it is about a new menu or a restaurant, nothing is a big reveal but a slow one. Details are coming out one by one, and the story is unfolding in stages.
Raga is a 42-seater space that will currently host 2 seating of 16 people each. In his recent social media post, Gaggan mentioned that there will be a single menu, while the number of courses remains unclear. The next ten days should bring more clarity. Be assured that dietary requirements will be met. However, if you are a vegan, beware because last I spoke to Gaggan he called veganism, “bullsh*t.” His views may have changed, but the warning stands.
However, one of the two things that is clear is that some of Gaggan’s classics, including the iconic yoghurt explosion, will appear on the menu in one form or another, and that the restaurant will utilise Indian produce at its best. It will feature dance, music, and food from one of the world’s biggest names. Gaggan is collaborating with his Indonesian protégé and right-hand man, Rydo Anton, who has been working with him for over a decade.
Gaggan X Zorawar—Who Are The Two Men?
Gaggan is the head chef of a restaurant that has ranked among Asia’s top 5 restaurants for 5 years and is regarded as Thailand’s best. The progressive Indian restaurant holds two Michelin stars and is known for many things—licking plates, a rat-brain preparation, and no phones.
Gaggan grew up in Calcutta. Humble beginnings and two incredible chef parents shaped his cooking journey. After graduating from the Institute of Hotel Management and Catering Technology (IHMCT) in Trivandrum, he spent 12 years honing his culinary skills before opening Gaggan, his first restaurant in Bangkok. Raga will be his first restaurant in India, and for that, he has collaborated with Zorawar Kalra, who has redefined fine dining in India.
Zorawar is the son of the iconic Jiggs Kalra, the man who stirred a revolution and brought lost Indian cuisine, recipes, and countless chefs to the fore in a way no one has replicated. Kalra Jr. is carrying that legacy forward, and with Raga, he brings one of India’s biggest restaurant launches of the year.
Bookings for the tables on August 26 have already opened (and will probably be filled by the time you read this), but a spot may still be worth chasing. It is priced at a lucky number —INR 11,111. Good luck, Gaggan and ZK!
