It felt like a small betrayal. When chef Garima Arora chose Gurugram for her much-anticipated Thai restaurant Banng, a collective sigh of disappointment rippled through Mumbai’s food scene. After all, Arora is a Mumbai girl and her collaborator, restaurateur Riyaaz Amlani, also one of our own. Why Delhi, when Banng’s spunky menu felt destined for the pulse of Mumbai?
But all is forgiven now. With the opening of Banng in Mumbai, we can all agree that the wait was the perfect seasoning. The anticipation has only sweetened the arrival of a restaurant that is not just a culinary collaboration but a homecoming. The fact that Banng Mumbai has a bigger and better menu feels like sweet revenge!
Banng in Mumbai is divided into two distinct personalities. Downstairs is a bar that hums with high energy, Bangkok style swings, drinks and a few small plates. Climb a winding flight of steps and the atmosphere shifts to a dining room with mirrors and seductive lighting. There’s music but it’s unobtrusive and doesn’t drown out a lively hum of chatter or an easy banter between staff.
The Star Dish
Both crowd-pleasing and daring, the menu features Thai classics as well as fun interpretations that amuse and delight. The chances of a bad meal at Banng are slender. Arora is too good a chef, and evidently trains her team with similar aptitude. Executive Chef Manav Khanna who has spent over eight years at Arora’s two Michelin starred Gaa in Bangkok, holds fort at both outposts of Banng. We began with the Tom Kha Pani Puri, and it was easy to see why it’s so popular: crunchy puris filled with chilled coconut broth and herbs provided the perfect opening to a sumptuous meal. The sea bass ceviche was a delight, its punchy dressing and pomelo bits adding a bright, citrusy pop to every spoonful. We sniffed it greedily. At Banng, the som tum gets an upgrade with avocado but it’s as gooey as a rom-com and twice as comforting.
Pleasure can also be found in the simplest of dishes like Tomatoes on Vines a small plate of charred and juicy tomatoes slathered in an addictive tom yum dressing and a perfectly fluffy Thai omelette topped with celery leaves and a sweet-sour-spicy dressing. Manners were abandoned when the grilled scampi arrived. We literally tore the flesh off the shell and gorged on mouthfuls. Five stars for the gaeng som dressing made from red curry paste. At Banng dishes arrive screaming of freshness and a love of detail. The reason, as chef Khanna explained is that the restaurant squeezes its coconut milk fresh every day, and all its curry pastes are hand-pounded in a central kitchen in Bangkok before being flown in.
While the classic red and green curries have always been my go-to at a Thai restaurant, chef Khanna coaxed me to try something different: the Gaeng Om. I am glad I gave in. This rustic, aromatic soup from Thailand’s northeastern region was a revelation. Made with chicken, toasted rice, dill and cabbage, it was comforting, and paired beautifully with a side of steamed jasmine rice and some stir-fried morning glory. Chef Khanna masterfully weaves fruits into savoury dishes, creating unexpected and delicious combinations. Lychees and grapes lend a fruity sweetness to a rich duck salad, a watermelon granita adds a refreshing twist to a Thai salad whereas grilled pineapples bring in a smoky undertone to scampi.
Sipping on a Thai Adventure
Downstairs, the atmosphere was electric. Bar head Attapon De Silva, a legend from Bangkok’s iconic bars like Asia Today and Independence, has crafted a menu that is a liquid homage to Thailand. I was amazed by the ingredients he used, from rambutan, palm toddy and five spice to turmeric, bamboo shoot and even yellow curry – things I’d never expected to find in a glass.
I tiptoed in with White Lotus, a martini that infuses gin with white turmeric and a hint of garlic brine. It was bold but nonetheless, unforgettable. I then dived in to The Andaman, another cocktail. I’ll be honest, the idea of dry squid-infused vodka with fish sauce was intimidating, but I took a leap. Briny and beautiful, it brought back memories of sitting by the Chao Phraya river and slurping on noodle soup at Khun Daeng.
Interestingly the drinks are paired with fun bar bites that channel Bangkok’s vibrant street food culture. You can find everything from charcoal-grilled skewers to playful takes on supermarket favourites, including their version of the famous 7/11 ham and cheese cigar rolls.
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