The Dal Ki Chaat At Loya, Mumbai, Will Make You A Chaat-Convert

When I imagine the perfect start to a long, hearty meal, I think of a refreshing gulp of jaljeera—perfectly spicy, sweet, ice-cold, and comforting, evoking memories of home.

And that is what kicked off my meal at Loya, The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai’s North Indian restaurant. Offered as we waited at the entrance, this shot of jaljeera was just enough to awaken our taste buds and prepare us for a generous meal, curated by Grand Master Chef Rajesh Wadhwa. Loya’s festive spread unveils dishes deeply rooted in local culture, from the Himalayas to Punjab and Kashmir. The menu is a  confluence of flavour and passion, all coming together on your plates.

Chef Wadhwa explained, “Our menu developed from countless conversations, shared meals, and unique journeys. Each recipe is shaped by the land and the people who live there, expressing their stories and traditions through flavour.”

The menu, especially the starters, offers dishes that keep getting better. Still, the highlight of my meal was the dal ki chaat, which stood out among the options.

Think of your average chaat lover. Now multiply that by ten. That’s how strongly I feel about chaat. And Loya’s dal-based version did not disappoint. It was prepared right before me on a grand tray table. The chaat came with a papad-like crunchy base. Piping hot dal was served on top. For flavour, the chef added tamarind, coriander, and green chilli chutney. It was then finally topped with chopped tomatoes, onions, and coriander leaves.

On the palate, this chaat is not your average khatti-meethi (sweet and sour) treat. It’s more like dal with a burst of flavours, bringing to you a popular taste from Uttar Pradesh in the heart of Mumbai. The crunchy base, topped with juicy, fresh veggies, creates a perfect balance in each bite. You won’t stop at just one bowl! It’s fancy street food, served hot in a steel katora (bowl) —ideal for any chaat fan like myself.

At Loya, the menu unfolds like a slow journey across North India. It’s best experienced from top to bottom. The dal ka pani soup gently begins the meal and sets the tone beautifully. Light and warm, it carries the flavour of slow-simmered lentils. Spices clarify it without feeling overpowering but comforting. Served in a kasora (small-mouthed glass without handles), it’s the perfect pick-me-up for cold winter evenings. This soup resets your palate, waking it up without overwhelming, and it feels especially satisfying as a first course.

The starters that follow are perfect for non-vegetarians. Both the mutton and chicken kebabs arrive tender and juicy. They are cooked just enough to retain their flavour and still carry the taste of the tandoor. The spices are just enough to let the meat shine. Served fresh off the grill with missi roti, a generous heap of sliced onions, and sharp green chutney, it’s the sort of food that invites you to use your hands and eat with patience.

From the foothills of the Himalayas comes the pisyuu loon paneer tikka—one of the most unique vegetarian offerings on the menu. The paneer is firm on the outside yet creamy inside, with a smoky exterior lifted by hand-pounded Pahadi salts, which add depth to the paneer. Inspired by Uttarakhand’s mountain cooking traditions, it tastes just like the best of the region.

Alongside, Himachal Pradesh makes a memorable appearance through dishes like raintha. This creamy, nutty preparation combines spinach, roasted walnuts, dates, and yoghurt, finishing with the unmistakable aroma of mustard oil. The chha gosht follows in the same regional spirit. It is a slow-cooked mutton curry enriched with yoghurt and spices, drawing from the food traditions of the Gaddi shepherds. The Gaddis are a semi-nomadic pastoral community primarily from the state of Himachal Pradesh.

On the main course, there’s also Reyansh, Uttarakhand’s ceremonial navrangi (multi-coloured) dal. It is made with a combination of nine lentils cooked slowly into a cohesive and comforting whole. This dish is deeply rooted in ideas of community and care.

As the menu moves into Punjab and the heartland of North India, the cooking becomes more celebratory. The Loya dum murg is a showstopper in both form and flavour. It features a whole marinated chicken sealed inside a khasta dough shell and slow-roasted. This allows the meat to cook in its own juices, resulting in a more tender and flavorful dish. When broken open, it releases a spiced aroma that makes you want to dig in. The Kunni murg is cooked slowly in a sealed clay pot, offering a unique kind of comfort. It is earthy, whole, and intensely delicious, with the spices mellowed through the time it takes to cook.

Building on earlier courses, the Neoja wadi pulao adds a festive touch to any meal. Its fragrant rice, studded with pine nuts and hearty wadis (sun-dried dumplings that are popular in Punjab), echoes celebratory meals all the way from Amritsar.

The journey ends along the Indian coastline with the sunheri lobster.  This warm dish, perfect for seafood lovers, is charred and delicately spiced with saffron, paired thoughtfully with prawn pulao, and lifted by a tangy buransh (rhododendron) chutney. Tying coastal ingredients back into Loya’s broader northern narrative, it delivers a memorable finale.

Just as Loya’s food showcases North Indian flavors, the drinks mirror this spirit. I tried their mango margarita, which blended in-house mango purée with tequila and lime. It was fresh, tropical, and truly refreshing. The distinctly Indian mango flavor was a highlight. Served in a chilled glass, the drink was delicious and meticulously crafted.

Another favorite was the masala whiskey—a delicious blend of whiskey and Indian spices, served in a small wooden cupboard that released a thick cloud of smoke when opened.

Loya’s sparkling saffron, crafted with sparkling white wine and saffron, was a delightful treat for those who appreciate Indian spices in cocktails. It’s bubbly, sweet, and reminiscent of mithai, finished with ample saffron strands on top. If you love Indian desserts in your drinks, try this one!

Loya’s Indian-inspired cocktails include Gulab, a rose-flavored special. Made with rose-cardamom vodka, pineapple, and citrus, this cocktail offers a refreshing Indian twist on fruity drinks.

Stepping into this restaurant is like entering a space designed to slow you down, evoking the traditions of royal dining. The room glows with warm, honeyed tones, as intricately perforated metal lanterns cascade from the ceiling. These chandeliers cast a soft, diffused light, creating an atmosphere that’s both intimate and grand. The lighting alone is emotionally effective—it’s low enough for romance, yet bright enough to showcase the space’s craftsmanship.

The interiors draw from North India’s architectural vocabulary. Earthy materials, carved details, and textured surfaces accompany plush seating in muted stripes and jewel-toned cushions. Solid wooden tables, grounded seating, and large planters soften the room. The bar, lined with warm wood and glowing shelves, adds a contemporary edge.

Located in the heart of Mumbai, this spot offers fine Indian dining, one carefully curated plate at a time.