These Are Old Delhi’s Best Spots For Some Piping Hot Halwa This Winter

What’s the first thing that comes to your mind when I say the word ‘halwa’? Probably something along the lines of a moong dal preparation, the classic sooji ka halwa, a winter favourite gajar ka halwa, or perhaps a delicious serving of atta halwa. However, Old Delhi is known for whipping up some of the most unique food in all of India and experimenting with their own twists on what might otherwise be the “usual.” From variations like gajar ka halwa made with black and even white carrots, to delicacies like sohan—or gum—halwa, Purani Dill is serving up some of the most unusual varieties of this household favourite Indian sweet treat. 

For some food for thought, historians trace the origin of this dessert’s recipes to the medieval Islamic period, with documented versions appearing in 13th-century Arabic cookbooks, such as Kitab al-Tabikh from Baghdad (The Book of Dishes), written by the Iraqi author Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq. The mention of the dessert in ancient texts is a testament to both its long history and the significant changes it has likely undergone as it has been passed down through generations of families and cooks.

Interestingly, eating halwa in winter soothes the throat, stomach, and heart, and renders a much-needed warmth. In the Unani medical tradition, halwa refers not only to desserts but also to herbal preparations made with ghee, sugar, nuts, and botanicals, similar to electuaries. These formulations help alleviate weakness, joint discomfort, and respiratory issues while providing warmth during winter.

Coming back to where we started, in Old Delhi, halwa is more than dessert. It is tradition, storytelling, and history stirred into one pot. Walk through the narrow lanes of Chandni Chowk, Ballimaran, or Chawri Bazaar, and you’ll find massive kadhais bubbling for hours, halwas simmering and often stirred by hand.

Here, ghee is generous, sugar is unapologetic, and time is non-negotiable. Below are some of the best spots in Purani Dilli for those waiting to enjoy a bowlful of hot halwa!

Meghraj Halwai

Tucked in the hustle and bustle of Fatehpuri Chowk, Meghraj & Sons has been a cherished culinary landmark in Old Delhi for well over a century. Established around the early 1900s, this sweet shop has remained in operation for five generations, preserving recipes from the past. 

What sets Meghraj apart in a neighbourhood famed for its variety in Indian sweets is their Habshi Halwa. This dense, deep-coloured halwa is made with mawa and khoya and topped with crunchy dry fruit. Locals and loyalists flock here, especially in winter, for this rich ghee-laden treat, alongside classics like gajar ka halwa and moong dal halwa, all loved for their warmth, comforting taste, and irreplaceable texture.

Address: 292 / 293 Chowk Fateh Puri Chandni Chowk, Delhi, 110006

Timings: Monday to Sunday (8 am–9 pm)

Shereen Bhawan

This spot, located near Jama Masjid, is known for making and selling some of the most unique and unheard of varieties of halwas in all of the capital. And that is exactly why people keep coming back. What sets this century-old sweet shop apart isn’t just tradition, though its roots stretch back well over a century, but its willingness to push beyond the usual winter favourites to offer halwa varieties you likely won’t find elsewhere in the city.

The shop’s most famous offering is its Safed (white) Gajar Halwa, made from rare white carrots that arrive only in peak winter, grown in cooler, northern plains and hilly regions like Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, and in cooler pockets of states like Karnataka.

Unlike the familiar red carrot version, this halwa is lighter in sweetness and boasts a soft, creamy texture that food lovers from all across India and the world queue up for each season. And if you thought this was their most unusual offering, it’s not! Alongside it are other unusual sweets, such as their aloe vera halwa—cooked to tame the plant’s natural bitterness and mixed with dried fruits and spices—and a robust Habshi Halwa, covered with cloves and warming spices that make it a winter favourite.

Similar to Meghraj, Shereen Bhawan’s recipes have been passed across generations, incorporating traditional culinary techniques once used by our ancestors. Among the current selection of desi-ghee sweets, this shop is a must-visit destination for those seeking to experience Old Delhi’s halwa traditions beyond conventional offerings.

Address: 1466/67, Bazaar Chitli Qabar, Near Matia Mahal Road, Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi-110006

Timings: Monday to Sunday (6 am–12 am)

Shyam Sweets

A spot nestled in the heart of Old Delhi’s Chawri Bazar for over a century, Shyam Sweets is synonymous with an old-school halwa experience that is both comforting and rooted in the city’s culinary history. Established in 1910 by Babu Lal, the shop is one of the area’s most enduring breakfast and sweet stops, drawing generations of Delhiites and visitors for its offerings.

While Shyam Sweets may be famous city-wide for its matar kachori—a flaky, spiced pea-filled delicacy that many locals still swear was, in fact, invented here—it’s the sweet counter that keeps people like me coming back. Their Gajar ka Halwa is cooked low and slow in desi ghee with plenty of dry fruits.

The result? An aromatic bowl that perfectly exemplifies what culinary genius can be found so close to home, in Old Delhi. Alongside the carrot halwa, you’ll also find nagori halwa, which is a unique offering only found in purani Dilli. It consists of tiny, crispy semolina (sooji) pooris (called ‘Nagoris’) served with a rich, sweet, ghee-soaked sooji halwa, often accompanied by spicy potato curry (aloo sabzi) for a delightful sweet-savoury contrast. Another crowd favourite on their menu is the dal halwa, prepared with generous ghee and moong dal, which pairs quite well with the shop’s chai or even lassi.

Shyam Sweets feels quite like a community institution where halwa is part of the classic Delhi breakfast circuit. Often served with bedmi puri or kachori and eaten standing on the bustling lane, it’s everything we crave and go to Purani Dilli for.

Address: 112, Chawri Bazar Rd, Manohar Market, Hauz Qazi, Chandni Chowk, Delhi, 110006

Timings: Monday to Sunday (8 am–9:30 pm)

Chaina Ram Sindhi Confectioners

Chaina Ram is a household name for serving some of the best desi desserts in Delhi. Originally founded in 1901 in Lahore’s Anarkali Bazaar, the shop brought its legacy to Fatehpuri Chowk after the partition in 1947. They are most popular for preparing and serving authentic Sindhi treats to the very hungry population of Delhi, and especially renowned for their legendary, chewy, and flavorful Karachi Halwa (gum halwa), as well as the sweet-laden ghewar. 

The Karachi halwa is chewy, translucent, and sweet, made from cornflour (which forms the gum), sugar, and ghee, often studded with cashews and pistachios. It is known for its distinctive glossy appearance and texture-rich flavour, which is subtler than overly sweet counterparts. Beyond Karachi Halwa, Chaina Ram’s counter overflows with a variety of traditional halwas and mithai: from sohan halwa and badam halwa to gajar and moong dal versions, each prepared in small batches and heavy with desi ghee.

Regulars also swear by Chaina Ram’s seasonal treats, such as ghewar and sev badam, as well as their widespread selection of barfis, ladoos, and other Sindhi delicacies. All these preparations make it a must-visit for anyone looking to try their hand at authentic traditional sweets in the heart of Chandni Chowk.

Address: Ground Floor, Fatehpuri Masjid, 6499, Katra Bariyan, near एक्सिस बैंक, Fatehpuri, Chandni Chowk, Delhi, 110006

Timings: Monday to Sunday (8 am–8 pm)

Ghantewala Halwai 

No list of Old Delhi’s halwa landmarks is complete without Ghantewala Halwai, one of the city’s most historic and storied sweet shops. Established in 1790 by Lala Sukh Lal Jain during the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Alam II, Ghantewala quickly became an institution in Chandni Chowk—so much so that its name and fame were woven into the very fabric of Dilli 6. The shop earned its iconic status not just locally but nationally, drawing everyone from Mughal nobles to Indian presidents and prime ministers through its doors over the centuries.

What put Ghantewala on the culinary map, however, was one particular halwa that won everyone’s hearts (and helped Ghantewala firm its foothold on Delhi’s culinary map since the 1700s!): The decadent Sohan Halwa, a rich, ghee-soaked sweet that became a signature item synonymous with the shop’s legacy. Traditionally slow-cooked in pure desi ghee with generous helpings of khoya and nuts, the sohan halwa here embodies the indulgent flavours of Old Delhi’s sweet heritage, alongside other favourites like Karachi Halwa and a range of classic mithai and snacks. 

After a hiatus since its closure in 2015, the shop has reopened in Chandni Chowk, bringing together its centuries-old recipes along with some new offerings on the menu. They continue to attract both loyalists and new generations of sweet lovers who want a taste of history in every bite!

Address: Maliwara Tiraha Bazar, Katra Shah N Shah, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi, Delhi, 110006

Timings: Monday to Saturday (9 am—9 pm)

Read more: Halwa: A Diverse And Delicious Sweet With A History As Rich As Its Texture

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