Sheikh Hasan Reza, Nizam’s, And The Story Of India’s Kathi Rolls

There are few Indian street foods as uncomplicated as a kathi roll. A flaky paratha, golden and crisp around the edges, enfolds smoky kebabs, sliced onions, green chillies and a squeeze of lime. Wrapped in paper, it becomes a meal that can be eaten on a busy pavement, between office meetings or while navigating the crowded lanes of a bustling market. It is filling, portable, and unapologetically messy in the most delicious way possible. Yet, behind this everyday favourite lies the story of how a simple kebab roll became a Kolkata classic.

Today, kathi rolls are found across India, from roadside stalls and neighbourhood takeaways to contemporary restaurants that experiment with fillings, sauces and breads. Chicken, mutton, paneer, egg and vegetables have all found their way into the roll. But the dish is widely associated with Nizam’s, the iconic Kolkata restaurant credited with popularising the original kebab roll. That association points to a simple origin: a good kebab, a hot paratha, and a practical solution to an everyday problem.

Established in 1932, Nizam’s stands near Kolkata’s New Market. Founded by Sheikh Hasan Reza, also known in historical accounts as Raza Hassan Saheb, the establishment initially built its reputation on kebabs and parathas served separately. Its name came from Reza’s son, Sheikh Nizamuddin, after whom the restaurant was christened.

The restaurant’s association with the kathi roll stems from a simple but ingenious idea. Kebabs were popular, but eating them while on the move was inconvenient. According to the widely recounted origin story, British customers were reluctant to eat oily kebabs by hand. Reza is credited with finding a solution: wrapping the grilled meat in a paratha and enclosing the combination in paper.

There are variations in how this story is told, and the precise circumstances of the roll’s invention are difficult to establish conclusively.

Nevertheless, Nizam’s remains closely associated with the dish’s origins, and the story captures the practical thinking behind its enduring appeal. By bringing together kebab and bread in a single package, the restaurant turned a familiar combination into a meal suited to the rhythms of a busy city.

Interestingly, the dish was not necessarily known as a kathi roll from the beginning. Its name is linked to a later change in how kebabs were prepared.

Traditionally, kebabs at Nizam’s were grilled on heavy iron skewers. In 1964, these were replaced by bamboo sticks, which were cheaper and easier to handle. The Bengali word kathi means stick, and the change is widely credited with giving the kathi roll its name. The bamboo skewer thus became part of the identity of a dish that would eventually travel far beyond Kolkata.

The roll also evolved in its composition. The original idea of wrapping kebabs in paratha lent itself to variations, with egg becoming an important addition to the Kolkata-style preparation. A layer of egg cooked onto the paratha adds richness, while the meat provides a smoky, savoury centre. Sliced onions, green chillies and lime bring sharpness and freshness, balancing the richness of the bread and filling.

The beauty of the preparation lies in this interplay of textures and flavours. The paratha is crisp yet pliable enough to hold its contents, the kebab carries the char of the grill, and the onions and chillies lend crunch and heat. The paper wrapping keeps everything together, allowing the diner to peel it back gradually without losing the filling. It is a carefully balanced meal disguised as an informal snack.

Over the decades, the kathi roll became deeply embedded in Kolkata’s food culture. The city’s crowded streets, bustling markets and office districts proved ideal territory for a dish that could be prepared quickly and eaten on the go. Its popularity extended beyond the British clientele associated with its early history, making it a favourite among local residents, students, shoppers and office workers.

Nizam’s, meanwhile, continued to serve its kebabs and rolls alongside other Mughlai-inspired dishes. Its reputation grew across generations, and the restaurant became a landmark for those seeking a taste of old Calcutta. References in popular music and reminiscences about Kolkata’s food scene have reinforced its place in the city’s cultural imagination.

But the roll’s success was never confined to one restaurant. Its format was easy to understand, reproduce and adapt. As more eateries began serving their own versions, the kathi roll became a staple of Kolkata’s street-food landscape. Different establishments developed distinctive preparations through their kebab marinades, the crispness of their parathas or the balance of onions, chillies and sauces.

This is also where Kolkata’s version distinguishes itself from other Indian wraps. While Mumbai’s frankie and other regional rolls share the idea of filling bread with savoury ingredients, the classic Kolkata kathi roll is closely tied to its kebab heritage and the paratha used to enclose it.

Today, the kathi roll has travelled well beyond its original home. Restaurants and street-food vendors across India offer versions filled with chicken tikka, mutton kebabs, paneer, spiced potatoes and mixed vegetables. Egg rolls, too, have become a familiar sight, with the egg often forming a golden layer around the paratha. Contemporary interpretations may incorporate mayonnaise, elaborate sauces and fusion fillings, while traditional establishments continue to draw customers with simpler preparations.

This adaptability is central to the roll’s longevity. It can be an inexpensive afternoon snack, a substantial lunch or a late-night meal. It suits the pace of modern urban life without sacrificing the pleasures of freshly cooked food. And although its fillings have multiplied, its essential format remains unchanged: a warm flatbread wrapped around a flavourful centre, designed to be eaten wherever the day takes you.

For many people, the kathi roll is also a food of memory. It recalls school and college outings, hurried lunches, evenings spent shopping and visits to favourite neighbourhood stalls. In Kolkata, where food traditions are closely intertwined with everyday life, the roll carries the familiarity of something that has always been there.

The story of Sheikh Hasan Reza and Nizam’s is ultimately about the power of a small culinary innovation. By adapting the familiar combination of kebab and paratha into a portable meal, the eatery helped shape a dish that has endured for generations. The details of its invention may vary across accounts, but its association with Nizam’s remains a defining part of Kolkata’s food heritage.

The kathi roll’s journey from a colonial-era eatery to a nationwide favourite reflects the way food traditions evolve. A practical solution became a local speciality; a local speciality became a street-food icon; and an icon became a canvas for countless interpretations.

Yet the fundamental pleasure of the kathi roll remains remarkably simple. It is the first bite through a crisp paratha, the warmth of the kebab, the bite of green chilli and the tang of lime. It is the convenience of a meal that needs no plate and the satisfaction of something made fresh and eaten hot.

More than nine decades after Nizam’s opened in its present-day form, the kathi roll continues to tell a story of Kolkata: inventive, bustling and deeply attached to its food. And every time someone unwraps one on a busy street, they participate in a tradition that began with an idea as straightforward as it was enduring: make a good kebab easier to eat, and let the city take it from there.