From Partition To Plate: Tracing The History Of Chhole Bhature

The connection between Delhi and its chole bhature is a unique love affair. Each year, as the chilly winter settles in, hundreds seek solace in a comforting bowl of spicy chana (chickpeas) paired with bhature (deep-fried breads), pickles, and salad. Beyond its culinary excellence, this dish mirrors Delhi’s cultural heritage, which dates back to the Mughal era.

Take an evening stroll in a popular market, and you will see the streets dotted with stalls serving the delicacy piping hot. But did you know that the origin of this popular North Indian street food has many versions and folklore that eventually brought it to the capital’s lanes?

The Mughal Connect

With the expansion of trade routes in ancient times, Chana Masala (flavoured chickpeas) arrived in India alongside spices and other culinary practices. It is believed that the Mughal rulers introduced this dish to the Indian subcontinent. Renowned for their love for flavours, the Mughals carried a culinary heritage that combined techniques and tastes from Persian, Turkish, and Indian culinary traditions.

The Partition Tale: Journey To Delhi

Among the many tales about how chole bhature arrived in Delhi, the most widely accepted one links it to the partition of India in 1947. The partition wasn’t merely a division; it separated cultures, families, and love, leaving a lasting impact.
Many migrated from Pakistan to India during those challenging times. Peshori Lal Lamba left Lahore, his hometown, to begin a new life in Delhi. His culinary connection offered comfort during the turbulent times of partition. Later, he set up the now-iconic Kwality restaurant in Connaught Place. Many believe Lamba was the first to introduce bhature and pair it with chole, creating the iconic dish we know today.

From Bicycle to Brand: The Sita Ram Story

Another popular story credits Sita Ram, founder of Sita Ram Diwan Chand, for introducing chole bhature. Sita Ram had migrated to Delhi with his son Diwan Chand, and their very first plate of chole bhature was priced at 12 annas. This initial success paved the way for the growth of their business.

According to their website, Sita Ram started the chole bhature venture alongside Diwan Chand, initially on a bicycle in 1950. Their stall swiftly became a sought-after destination opposite DAV School, drawing students and locals. Later, around the 1980s, the shop moved to the bustling lanes of Paharganj, where it remains a popular spot. Today, their chhole bhature legacy spans multiple locations in Delhi.

From Delhi to the Deccan: The Widespread Popularity of a Classic

Chole bhature has long been a beloved dish from North India, but its rich flavours and irresistible aroma have made their way down south as well. Over the years, it has gained popularity across various regions, with even Udupi restaurants embracing it and adding to its legacy. If you are a street food enthusiast, make sure chole bhature is on your must-try list the next time you are in Delhi.