There’s something exciting about watching a chef move through the kitchen, directing his team and bringing each dish together, especially when his restaurant earned a Michelin star just 20 days after opening. On August 28, at Prego at The Westin Gurgaon, New Delhi, I got to do just that as Chef Andy Beynon brought his restaurant, Behind, to India for a two-night pop-up. Behind, Beynon’s Michelin-starred restaurant in East London, is known for its intimate chef’s-table experience and seafood-focused cooking. While the dinner was set up at Prego, some of that same feeling came through. I also have to admit that I am not the biggest fan of seafood, so I wasn’t quite sure how I would feel about a menu that leaned so heavily into it. But that turned out to be one of the more interesting parts of the evening.
A Menu Of Contrasts
The kitchen was already buzzing when I arrived. There was a sense of urgency as the team moved between preparations, plating and last-minute checks. Beynon was right in the middle of it all, tasting, checking the details before each course made its way out. It was a very different way of experiencing fine dining. Instead of simply waiting for the next plate at the table, I could see everything that was happening just before it arrived.
The menu began with chawanmushi, spiced crab and coconut. The savoury custard was delicate, with the crab and coconut adding flavour without making it feel too heavy. Then came tuna, caviar and chilled pistachio, one of my favourites of the evening, followed by lobster, mango and pomelo. The sweetness of the mango and freshness of the pomelo complemented the lobster beautifully, making it one of the dishes that even a seafood-averse diner like me could enjoy.
As the courses continued, the menu moved through a range of flavours and textures. The gazpacho offered a refreshing pause before the sea bream tartare with Thai basil, jalapeño and kaffir lime arrived. Fresh and vibrant, with a gentle heat from the jalapeño, it was another dish that pleasantly surprised me. Then came the lamb chop with courgette, basil and anchovies. After the seafood courses, it was a welcome change, bringing a richer, more savoury note to the meal. The lamb had a comforting quality to it, while the courgette and basil kept the dish feeling fresh.
Dessert brought the evening to a delightful close, beginning with pain perdu, raspberries and crème fraîche, followed by an herb sorbet. The final raspberry and tomato British tea was an unexpected combination, but made for an interesting end to the meal. What I liked was that the menu never felt predictable. There was always something new to discover, and even with my usual hesitation around seafood, I found myself curious about what would arrive next.
What Stayed
What I enjoyed most about the evening was how involved the experience felt. Fine dining can often feel removed from the people creating the food, but this evening offered a glimpse of the thought, timing and teamwork that goes into a tasting menu. It made the meal feel less formal and more personal.
For Behind, this was its first pop-up in India and a chance to bring its London experience to Gurgaon. For those at Prego that evening, it was a chance to experience Beynon’s cooking without travelling to London. For me, it was simply a lovely evening of good food, a busy kitchen and a chef who was clearly very involved in every part of the experience.
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