Meghalaya—my second home—is one of the most stunning, Instagrammable, and fast-growing tourism destinations in India. And, while it was misunderstood in the recent past over a family’s personal issues that turned tragic, I think Shillong is widely misunderstood as being a non-vegetarian’s delight. After all, the city does serve some of the best smoked pork and beef dishes in the country.
But Shillong, especially in terms of culinary experiences, is so much more than the delicious Jadoh (rice served with fried slices of pork) and Tungrymbai (fermented soybeans with pork or sesame seeds) it is otherwise known for. For years, this city has been home to dedicated veg-only restaurants and canteens, quietly serving elaborate vegetarian meals to its people, comprising South Indian, North Indian, Chinese, Oriental, and even Italian dishes that not a lot of visiting vegetarian tourists are aware of.
Come, enjoy Mother Nature’s finest creations in Cherrapunji and marvel at the amalgamation of human innovation and natural resources in Riwai’s living root bridge. But, while you explore the Scotland of the Northeast, make sure to also satiate your vegetarian taste buds at these food joints without having to stress over where your next meal is going to come from.
Jiva Veg
The restaurant, which is located at Shillong’s answer to a mall road in the North Indian mountains—Police Bazaar—is the perfect place for a vegetarian to devour some of the best authentic South Indian, vegetarian-only dishes without any apprehension. I am talking about a wide range of dosas to choose from, with generous servings of uthappam, idlis, and even poha at your disposal.
During my recent trip to my family home, most of my mornings were spent gorging on piping hot masala dosa or a large bowl of poha, while also sipping on filter coffee at Jiva Veg. For those with different preferences, you can always try out their sumptuous vegetarian biryanis for lunch and dinner.
Address: GS Rd, Nongpoh, Nongkhrah, Meghalaya 793102
Timings: 8:30 AM – 9:30 PM
Madras Cafe Or Namma Madras Cafe
True story: When I was in college, I ate almost all my weekend meals at this cosy eatery. The 1999-established canteen-turned-cafe offers a whole host of dishes for every kind of vegetarian: kebabs for the spice lovers, dosas and idlis for the South Indian cuisine fans, and pulaos and paneer butter masalas for the die-hard North Indian eaters. Just recently, Madras Cafe expanded its menu and has now incorporated Jain food into its daily offerings. So if you thought Shillong is only for the meat lovers, I would say think again!
Address: HVGJ+MH4, Jail Road, Police Bazar, Shillong, Meghalaya 793001
Timings: 7 AM – 10 PM
Bistro Vegetarian
Have you ever looked at a menu comprising only Chinese vegetarian dishes? Because this restaurant caters to that kind of foodies. From your hot and sweet corn soups and American corn salt & pepper to vegetarian fried rice and veg manchurian, Bistro Vegetarian is the hottest restaurant in Shillong for vegetarian Chinese food enthusiasts. Their menu also includes North Indian dishes, such as Maa Ki Dal, Aloo Matar, among many others.
Address: Thana Road, Police Bazar, Shillong, Meghalaya 793001
Timings: 11 AM – 10 PM
Cloud Social: The Subz
Cloud Social’s The Subz needs to be on every tourist’s checklist who is planning a trip to Shillong in the coming holiday season. Because this pure-vegetarian place comes with an additional perk: you could book your stay here as well. Yes, one of the most loved pure vegetarian eateries in Shillong is actually a hotel cum restaurant. What makes it all the more appealing is the fact that it covers local as well as global cuisines made and served in a pure vegetarian style. It includes Chinese, Oriental, Italian, North Indian and even Jain dishes, covering pretty much all the food items that are usually a hit with the Indian palate.
Address: 2nd Floor, Ander’s Mansion, above HDFC Bank, Police Bazar, Shillong, Meghalaya 793001
The Right Kind Of Vegetarian Street Food To Munch On In Shillong
Like most northeastern states, Meghalaya, too, is known for its top-notch momos. But there are so many misconceptions sticking to this much-loved street food. The most common question I get is about the quality of veg momos that are served on the streets of Shillong. “Will it be as good as chicken momo or pork momo?” a friend once asked. Another echoed a similar sentiment, “Are you sure the veg momos are fit for my consumption?”
This may come as a surprise to some, but there’s a thriving vegetarian community in Shillong, and yes, they enjoy the street food as much as their non-vegetarian counterparts.
So the next time you’re in Shillong, do try out the vegetarian momos from local street vendors in Police Bazaar’s Police Point junction and any of the touristy places you visit. Since the people of Shillong have been generationally eating and making this delicacy, their momo offerings are thinner on the outside and vegetable-rich on the inside—just the way momos should be cooked!
Another Shillong-exclusive item that should be on every traveller’s, especially a foodie’s, list is the famous aloo muri. Made out of mixing puffed rice (muri) with loads of boiled potatoes, minced onions, chopped green chilies, various spices, and a dash of mustard oil, this quick dish is what every local eats at least once a week, and it is oh-so-mouthwatering! The secret to enjoying aloo muri, however, lies in how fast the item is delivered, as the puffed rice tends to turn soggy if not served and eaten on time (which is within minutes).
Now that you know of the vegetarian canteens and restaurants to eat at in Shillong—and the street foods to try out—will you still defer your trip to this gorgeous place? I reckon not.
Read More: Kristi Kikon On Cooking For Christian Louboutin And Celebrating Nagaland’s Culinary Roots
Also Read: Chef Rinchin Jomba’s Award-Winning Millet Momo And The Story Behind It
