What Independence Day Tasted Like At The Claridges New Delhi

This Independence Day, Lutyens’ Deli at The Claridges New Delhi took a broad view of Indian food. It was a special brunch, “Saffron to Sage”, brought together dishes from Goa, Uttarakhand, the south, Punjab and beyond, with the menu moving between regional staples and contemporary interpretations.

The idea behind the name was equally expansive. Saffron represented the struggle and sacrifice associated with India’s freedom, while sage looked towards sustainability and the changing ways in which India eats today. Executive Chef Ankur Gulati described the menu as a journey through the country, with the buffet moving from Goan prawn curry to Himalayan siddu. “So if you see, we have travelled. It’s a journey, when you look at the buffet,” he said.

The meal began with Saffron Almond Shorba and a Coastal Prawn & Coconut Broth, followed by a selection of tikkas and kebabs. The Paneer Tikka Trio, Mutton Gilafi Seekh and Lemon Pepper Fish Tikka brought familiar flavours to the table without making the opening course too heavy.

The golgappa station was perhaps the most playful expression of the menu’s regional focus. “India in 4 Golgappas” offered four different versions of the popular street food, each paired with a distinct flavoured water. Aam Pora and Gondhoraj Jol represented the east, Lehsuni Khajur Jol the west, Hing Pudina Jol the north and Curry Leaves-Kokum Jol the south.

It was a small detail, but an impactful one. The same snack changed character depending on the ingredients around it, showing just how differently a familiar Indian food can be interpreted across the country.

The Live Siddu Station brought Uttarakhand into the mix. Siddu, a steamed bread traditionally associated with the Himalayan region, is not something you often encounter on a hotel brunch menu in Delhi. Here, it was stuffed with urad dal, walnut and garlic.

Gulati admitted that Uttarakhand cuisine was not an obvious choice for him at first. “I’m not very keen on Uttarakhand food. But then it’s something that is coming into the limelight, because it’s generally supposed to be healthy, food from Uttarakhand. So we’ve given a shot at that,” he said.

The savoury siddu was dense and filling, with the walnut and garlic adding depth to the lentil filling. It also brought a different kind of Indian cooking to a menu otherwise filled with more recognisable festive dishes.

The main course was where the breadth of the menu became most apparent. Chicken Sofiyani Biryani and Junglee Maas appeared alongside Goan Prawn Curry, Avial and Gahat Ki Daal. Further along, the menu moved beyond the traditional Indian repertoire to include Fish Meunière, Tangra Chilli Chicken and Lamb Massaman Curry.

It could have become an unfocused collection of dishes, but the idea was less about creating a definitive survey of Indian cuisine and more about showing its range. As Gulati put it, the menu was designed around “showcasing the cuisine’s versatility”.

“You should try the Goan food. You should try the lamb that was there,” said Gulati. The Goan Prawn Curry was one of the stronger dishes on the table, with coconut lending it richness while kokum brought the necessary acidity. It retained the character of Goan cooking rather than becoming a generic seafood curry adapted for a hotel buffet.

Dessert took a more overtly celebratory route. The Tiranga Mousse Cake, Pistachio Rose Milk Cake and Coconut Jaggery Freedom Ladoo brought the colours and flavours associated with Independence Day into the final part of the meal.

Trying to represent India through food comes with an obvious problem, there is simply too much to choose from. Gulati acknowledged as much. “India is such a huge country, you know, it’s difficult to incorporate everything. And not everything is liked by everybody,” he said.

“Saffron to Sage” selected a handful of regions and dishes and placed them alongside more familiar hotel favourites. Goa had its prawn curry; Uttarakhand had siddu and gahat ki daal; the south came through in the avial and kokum; while the broader menu moved between Mughlai, Bengali, Anglo-European and Southeast Asian influences.

That approach made the brunch feel like a snapshot of how varied the country’s food can be. For an Independence Day menu, perhaps that was enough; not an attempt to fit the whole country onto a buffet table, but an invitation to explore a few of its many culinary traditions.