Hutong’s Fiery Elegance Returns To Shang Palace In Delhi

If Shang Palace is a stage for the art of Chinese gastronomy, then Hutong’s return to Delhi is its standing ovation moment. A pop-up dinner by Hutong Dubai is being held from October 24 to 26, transforming the familiar calm of Shang Palace into a room humming with the scent of chillies, anise, pepper, and expectation.

I arrived at the preview dinner to find a room bathed in amber light, tables adorned in minimalist grace, and servers moving with a quiet choreography that spoke of both discipline and warmth. Gerald Villafuerte, Hutong’s supervisor for the evening, greeted me with the kind of measured enthusiasm that sets the tone for a fine dining experience—refined, yet inviting. “At Hutong, we believe in celebrating diversity through flavour,” he told me as we were seated. “At this dinner, we will see how Northern Chinese cuisine can embrace everyone, even those who prefer vegetarian options.”

This collaboration between Hutong Dubai and Shang Palace at Shangri-La Eros New Delhi was no small affair. As the first Northern Chinese restaurant to earn a Michelin star in Hong Kong and a Dubai outpost featured in the Michelin Guide, Hutong carries its reputation lightly—confident but never loud. For Delhi, this pop-up was a chance to taste that pedigree firsthand, framed by Shang Palace’s familiar elegance.

The set menu—available for lunch and dinner—offered a thoughtfully balanced progression of dishes, from classics like the signature Roasted Peking Duck and Red Lantern Spiced Soft-Shell Crab to more contemporary creations such as Lobster with Mapo Tofu, Grilled Lamb Rack with Cumin Seeds, and the vegetarian Sanchen Spiced King Oyster Mushroom.

The Red Lantern Spiced Soft-Shell Crab set the tone. Presented atop a bed of dried whole chillies, it was a visual and aromatic statement of intent. The heat was assertive, but not brash — the kind that lingers and deepens, coaxing out sweetness from the crab beneath. Each bite was crisp, smoky, and perfectly balanced by a whisper of chilli oil. The dish was a reminder of Hutong’s philosophy: bold flavours delivered with restraint.

Next came the Sanchen Spiced King Oyster Mushroom—a dish that, in lesser hands, might have played the role of an afterthought. But here, it stood tall. The meaty texture of the mushroom, glazed with the same smoky, numbing spice profile, offered a beautiful vegetarian counterpoint to the seafood.

But the dish that stayed with me—long after the table had been cleared and the soft clinking of cutlery faded—was the Black Diamond Tofu.

To call tofu “silky” feels almost inadequate when describing what arrived before me that evening. The Black Diamond Tofu was a revelation in restraint, a dish that relied less on flamboyance and more on the quiet luxury of texture. Its surface glistened under the low light, lacquered in a dark, savoury glaze that carried the faintest hint of umami sweetness.

The first bite was enough to make conversation pause. The tofu—impossibly soft, almost custard-like—dissolved with barely a touch, leaving behind a slow, aromatic heat that unfurled gradually. It wasn’t about intensity but about control. Each element — the spice, the glaze, the whisper of garlic—was deliberate, layered, and in perfect sync. It’s the kind of dish that turns simplicity into a statement.

“This is what Hutong does best,” Villafuerte told me later when I mentioned how it felt almost impossible to describe the texture without resorting to poetry. “Even a humble ingredient like tofu becomes something extraordinary when treated with respect.”

I couldn’t have agreed more.

While I didn’t sample the drinks that evening, Hutong’s presence at Grappa, led by celebrated mixologist Andreas Qepali, will add another layer to the experience. Guests will be treated to a series of bespoke cocktails designed to mirror the menu’s balance of heat and fragrance.

For mains, the Grilled Lamb Rack with Cumin Seeds and Lobster with Mapo Tofu showcased Hutong’s ability to flirt with spice without overwhelming. Each dish was grounded in Northern Chinese tradition yet tuned for a global palate. It was fire and discipline in one breath.

Dessert arrived with understated elegance—the Bao & Soy, a soft steamed bun filled with soy custard and finished with a delicate coffee crumble. Alongside it came Mala—a decadent crémeux chocolate mousse kissed with spice, paired with a sour plum sorbet that cut through the richness with cool precision. The interplay of heat and tartness was as unexpected as it was exquisite, a finale that lingered like the memory of a good conversation.

As the evening drew to a close, I realised Hutong’s pop-up was more than a dining event. Every plate told a story of contrasts: fire and silk, restraint and boldness, tradition and reinvention. In a city that loves its drama, Hutong at Shang Palace reminded me that true luxury lies not in excess, but in harmony—in knowing when to whisper, and when to let the spice speak.

Dates: Till October 26

Price: INR 6,000 plus taxes for vegetarian and INR 7,000 plus taxes for non-vegetarian set menu

ALSO READ: Chef Katherine Lim On Hakka Cuisine And Her Journey As  A Chef