The Chargrilled Prawns At Neuma, Kolkata Is Succulent, Smoky, And Delicious
Karan Johar's Neuma has already made a name for itself in Mumbai. Its Kolkata outpost arrives with the same promise—good food, thoughtful design and an experience that lingers long after the last course
The skies were overcast the day we headed to Neuma Kolkata, as they so often are in June over the city—heavy, expectant, almost theatrical. The lift made brisk work of the ascent, whisking us up to the 24th floor of JW Marriott Kolkata on JBS Haldane Avenue, where the atmosphere shifted almost immediately. What greeted us was not just altitude, but a jaw-dropping sweep of Kolkata unfurling beneath a veil of cloud and light.
There is a certain anticipation that comes with restaurants that have already become “talk of the town”, and Neuma arrives in Kolkata carrying that weight lightly. Co-founded by filmmaker Karan Johar along with Bunty Sajdeh and True Palate Pvt. Ltd., the brand has already established itself in Mumbai as a premium dining destination, occupying the former Indigo space at Garden Chalet in Colaba. In Kolkata, it steps into a more contemporary vertical setting, but retains the same intent—global dining framed through a polished, experience-led lens.
The Concept
Neuma—pronounced “Noo-Maa”—takes its name from the idea of spirit and human connection. In Kolkata, the brand keeps that philosophy intact but stretches it a little wider. While the Mumbai outpost is more closely tied to classical European dining, the Kolkata kitchen brings in a broader global mix, shaped by how the city naturally gravitates towards shared, communal meals.
Chef Sandeep Mondal describes the approach as being rooted in Kolkata’s own rhythm of eating—how people gather around food, how dishes are passed around, and how comfort often anchors the table. Familiar flavours are lifted with a lighter, more global touch, sitting somewhere between indulgence and restraint, memory and reinvention.
The Food Menu
The menu is extensive—around 90 dishes—yet thoughtfully structured rather than overwhelming. It moves with intent, progressing from brighter, more vibrant notes into deeper, more indulgent flavours as the meal unfolds. The menu moves across cuisines with ease, without committing to a single identity. We began with the Horensu Gomadare, a chilled baby spinach salad dressed in a sesame-based sauce and topped with crisp fried leeks. It arrived as a fresh, understated opening—simple in concept, but neatly executed.
From there, the pace builds gently. We made our way to the Chargrilled Prawns early on, one of Neuma’s signature plates, and it arrived as a straightforward but confident execution. Succulent tiger prawns, sautéed in garlic and olive oil, carried a gentle smokiness, lifted at the end with crispy basil and a scatter of fresh chives. It was the kind of dish that doesn’t try to impress with excess, but lands instead through clarity and balance. The Grilled Salmon is widely appreciated for its pronounced, savoury richness.
The delicious offerings at Neuma, Kolkata
The risotto with the sweet touch of pumpkin arrives, staying faithful to its Italian roots without unnecessary reinterpretation, while the Japanese section—anchored by a dedicated sushi bar—remains disciplined in technique and presentation. Across the menu, there is a clear emphasis on ingredient-led cooking and modern plating, where restraint is as important as flavour.
The Lasagna Shrimp Dim Sum Butter Ponzu is one of the more talked-about plates on the menu, playing on familiarity while shifting it into a more playful format. A dedicated sushi section and a range of handmade pastas further extend the kitchen’s scope, each handled with a consistent focus on clarity rather than excess.
The cocktail programme follows a similar idea of variety without clutter. We tried the Panda Got Pandan – a yet mellow bright creation that leans into freshness, alongside a selection of house signatures and well-executed classics that feel measured rather than over-styled.
The food philosophy leans towards layering rather than excess.
Peppermint Spark and Panda Got Pandan at Neuma, Kolkata (L-R)
Dishes are flavour-forward and balanced, often designed for sharing, encouraging a communal rhythm at the table. Comforting gravies, rice-based dishes, and familiar profiles are reworked with lighter textures, cleaner finishes, and subtle umami depth, allowing recognisable flavours to feel newly articulated rather than reinvented.
A notable strength lies in the progression of the meal itself—moving from freshness and brightness into richer, more rounded expressions, giving the dining experience a natural narrative arc.
The Space
Designed by RENESA Architecture Design Interiors Studio, the 9,000-square-foot space moves through a series of layered zones, where dark tones, textured finishes, and carefully placed lighting set the mood. Seating is arranged in clusters rather than open rows, creating quiet pockets within the room—so the restaurant feels both spacious and intimate at the same time.
The view, however, remains the most striking design element. Perched high above the city, the restaurant uses Kolkata itself as a shifting backdrop—cloud cover, fading daylight, and the slow glitter of evening lights becoming part of the dining experience. It is immersive without trying too hard, confident in its elevation.
